Shasta Sargents Ridge Coordination

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  • 03/19/2019 3:11 PM
    Message # 7235284
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Hey everyone, lets use this forum to coordinate ride sharing and logistics for Shasta Sargents Ridge. For reference, official posting is here. Gear list was sent out with your registration confirmation. Don't forget there is a fee to climb above 10,00 feet, and you will need to pack out all solid waste, both of these can be handled at the trailhead. Please read here.

    Looking forward to the climb!

    Last modified: 03/19/2019 3:24 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 03/19/2019 3:25 PM
    Reply # 7235311 on 7235284

    I'm registered for the Mt. Shasta climb along Sargent's Ridge on April 1st and wanted to get conversations started for equipment, timing, logistics, and any additional route preparations. This will be my first entrance on a winter mountaineering route and reading the route descriptions possibly one of the more exposed crux's I've been on.

    I'll be coming from Mountain View, CA and I plan on driving up the day prior and sleeping in my car or making the drive early in the morning. I should have room for one other person if needed (Mazda 3 hatchback).

    Weather looks mostly OK to me with slight snow showers on and off all next week.

    Snowpack looks generally stable given current snow/temperature forecast. My understanding of the route is that there is not specifically in higher risk avi terrain anyways.

    Group Gear I don't have

    * 4 season tent

    * Stove (I've got a basic iso-butane stove but worried the temps will affect them considerable, I've been eyeing something better)

    I've also got a snow picket I can bring, extra snow tent stakes. I'll bring my snowshoes as I assume the route along the Bunny Flats and initial climb may warrant them but I'm not familiar with the current conditions.

    Looking forward to getting some discussions going!

    Last modified: 03/19/2019 3:59 PM | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 03/19/2019 3:33 PM
    Reply # 7235319 on 7235284

    P.S. Summit Post route guide recommends rope/picket for one of the crux slope options. Group gear or avoiding this route option?

  • 03/20/2019 11:45 AM
    Reply # 7236726 on 7235284

    Hey guys,

    I'll bring a whisperlite, fuel and a pot for melting snow.  I do not have a 4 season tent.  As far as ropes, pickets, etc, I am not familiar enough with this route to make that call.  If its just 50 degree snow climbing I'd be good without any pro.  As far as gear I'll be bringing both double and single boots.  Temps this week are looking extremely cold so if that continues it could a very chilly climb.

  • 03/20/2019 1:54 PM
    Reply # 7236866 on 7235284

    Hey all! This will be my third time on Shasta, but first time on this route. I'm definitely looking forward to the trip! 

    Regarding gear:

    Stove: I can bring a SnowPeak Gigapower. It's not the quickest to boil but it's light.

    Cookware: I'll bring a titanium cookset (2 pots + lid/fry pan).

    Tent: Best I have is a 3-season with a hole in the floor (courtesy of a knife-happy TSA agent). I'll bring it if I have to, but would prefer to sleep in something better if possible. I have snow stakes I'm happy to bring.

    Boots: I don't have doubles, but I've not had an issue with my Garmont Tower Plus GTX in the past (with mountaineering socks)... if those sound inappropriate given the conditions I'll need to reconsider, open to suggestions there!

    Snow pro: I have some snow pro I can bring if need be, but wasn't planning on it (pickets/screw/probe/shovel).

    Carpool: I'm coming from Auburn. I'm open to carpooling if anyone else is coming from my area

  • 03/20/2019 3:24 PM
    Reply # 7237014 on 7235284

    Hi Guys/Girls,

    I just climbed Green Butte Ridge (including the top of Sargents Ridge) last weekend so I have some beta for you.

    The Fifth season did not have permits. They informed me they would not have permits until April so they may have them on the 1st or maybe not. Either way you can get a permit for $25 at the trailhead - self registration. The trailhead permits are not the annual pass they are only good for 3 days.

    There is tons of snow! However I dressed for a winter climb and it felt like July! So pay attention to the weather. For my climb it was around 60 degrees low on the mountain with no wind and only light clouds so it was Hot during the day. I slept at 10,000' and it was roughly 25 degrees at night. Also the sun was brutal, bring lots of sunscreen if your not going to be totally covered.

    We climbed the ridge proper and did harness up and used a rope, pickets and slings/cordellete (to sling rocks).

    Also we started the approach at 10am saturday and the snow was already starting to get soft. We wore/carried snow shoes and poles and even with the additional weight I was glad I did. Also there was a huge avalanche in Avy Gulch around valentines day, which on the mountain is invisible due to later snow fall. However when we descended the mountain via Avy Gulch we found varying soft and hard snow which became very soft to hard snow by late in the day. For this reason I was also happy to have snow shoes for the walk out. Up to you though.

    Hope this helps, good luck to you all!

    Kevin Geary

  • 03/20/2019 3:28 PM
    Reply # 7237016 on 7235284

    Travis- As for boots I wore doubles and was Way too hot. Depending on weather for your climb your boots should be perfect.

  • 03/20/2019 5:42 PM
    Reply # 7237175 on 7235284

    Super appreciative of the beta Kevin!

    I also only have single boots, usually OK, I've used toe warmers with prior rented boots in January in Colorado a few years ago with good results. The weather so far seems to indicate a cold front is coming in and at the ~12k level temps look between ~0F and 20F.

    Although I've climbed the Roman Wall (~40 deg) on Mt. Baker when it was quite icy we were roped up for the Easton glacier already. My experience on steep exposed snow without rope/protection is limited so I'm certainly predisposed to playing on the conservative side. I'm looking forward to having this experience. I'll bring my picket, my rope is a 70m (primarily rock use) so likely a no go. 

    Darren, with several of us needing 4-season tents can we borrow them from the club?

  • 03/21/2019 8:39 AM
    Reply # 7238130 on 7235284

    I'm all set with personal gear and I can also bring the following:

    -MSR XGK stove and a large pot.
    -40m wet rope and one picket
    -Direkt 2 Tent... comfortable single-place that can fit two in a pinch.

    -Garmin InReach

    I also have an extra pair of MSR EVO snowshoes if someone needs them.


  • 03/24/2019 10:59 AM
    Reply # 7242177 on 7235284

    Excited to get out with everyone!

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