Mt. Robson 2025 Expedition, BC Canada

Mt. Robson 2025 Expedition BC Canada

Join Apex Members to climb the Kain Face on the Monarch of the Canadian Rockies. At 12,972 with the infamous 9,000' high Emperor Face, bristling with glaciers and unrivalled in majesty, Mt. Robson is the undisputed "high point" of the Canadian Rockies and has always been a place of challenging yet amazing alpine climbing. We'll basecamp at the Dome and climb the historic Kain Face route, with options to also climb Mt. Resplendent and The Helmet as conditions dictate. 

This is a serious expedition with two mandatory team skills training dates prior to departure and will require a high degree of fitness. Prior experience climbing glaciers and multi-pitch ice or alpine ice required. We have room for 6. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified. Thank you! 

DETAILS:

• What's happening: Climbing on Mt. Robson 12,972' with basecamp near the Dome 10,072' on the Robson Glacier. Glacier travel, alpine ice climbing, backcountry and glacial navigation and camping. Up to two rope teams of three. Kain Face route is rated D, AI3, 50 degrees, and we will descend the same route either downclimbing or rappelling off V-thread anchors. There is the likelihood of climbing low 5th class broken rock with full packs and mountaineering boots on the Resplendent - Robson ridge if the Robson Glacier "Mousetrap" is too hazardous to attempt. All ascents will take between 10-16 hours, all will involve early alpine starts. Freezing temperatures, snowstorms, and hazardous conditions will always be present (and even a likelihood) on a mountain as large as Robson. Summit success rate is 50% at it's best, some years only 10%, depending upon conditions. Prior mandatory glacier and ice climbing training in January and May 2024. Loaner gear may be available.
• Where to meet: Robson Provincial Park, BC Canada
• Event Leaders: Darren Shutt, Kelvin Nguyen
• Minimum / Maximum: 3,6
• Travel and gear coordination: International travel to Canada requires a valid passport and proof of COVID immunization. Group spreadsheet on G-Drive will be shared with confirmed participants.
• Skills Requirements: Participants should be experienced in and know how to traverse and rescue on glacial terrain, climb 65-degree muti-pitch alpine ice with two tools, climb fifth class rock in mountaineering boots, lead belay, rappel, and clean ice and rock protection, as well as backcountry and glacial travel and camping. 
• What to bring: Warm technical ice climbing boots, sharp ice crampons, a pair of sharp technical ice tools, harness, belay device, 3 locking carabiners, 2 slings, prusik, Tibloc or Micro traxion, a snow picket, 16 cm ice screw, PAS, helmet, base layers, mid layers, shell layers, puffy with hood, 2 pair socks, gloves, mountain glasses, 40 - 60 liter climbing pack, sleeping bag, mat, tent, food for 6 days, 2 liter water carrying capacity, trekking poles, map, compass, strong headlamp with extra batteries, a few shovels and glacier wands for the group. Each person will carry crevasse rescue gear. MAA may supply some or all of the group technical equipment, ropes, tents, stoves, and fuel.
• Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.

ITINERARY:

• PRIOR: Multi-pitch ice climbing training January 2025 and glacier travel and rescue training on Mt. Shasta Hotlum Left Ice Gully May 2025, exact dates TBD. We will arrange gear and logistics online and on a conference call TBD, will communicate with registrants.
• DAY 1 - Monday, July 28th: Meet at the trailhead and finalize logistics. Hike approx. 13 miles to Berg Lake campsites, or further to camp at the foot of the Robson Glacier.
• DAY 2 - Tuesday, July 29th: Ascend the Robson Glacier to view option to go through the "Mousetrap." If that is out of shape then we will ascend to the Robson / Resplendent col and traverse the exposed low-5th class broken ridge and upper glacier. This may involve roped protected climbing and rappelling, all with full packs. We'll establish basecamp at the Dome 10,072' on the Robson Glacier, at the foot of the Kain Face.
  
• DAY 3 - DAY 5, Wednesday, July 30th - Friday, August 1st: 3 days to rest, acclimate, climb and descend the Kain Face to the summit of Robson, weather being agreeable. Exact itinerary depends upon conditions, weather, and our team. Other routes we can climb from the same base camp are the Ice Arete (AD, 5.4) on Resplendent and the SE Ridge (PD+) on The Helmet.  
• DAY 6 - Saturday, August 2nd: Break camp and head home.
• August 3rd - 6th is set aside as contingency dates for the mountain. If we accomplish our objective we have other mountains in mind. 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

• This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

• This event is open to all Apex members only. 

• MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

• MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

• Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

• Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

• As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

• All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

• The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

• MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.