Mt. Hood & Smith Rock Oregon Expedition

  • 04/04/2022
  • 4:00 PM
  • 04/09/2022
  • 8:00 AM
  • Smith Rock State Park and Mt. Hood, OR
  • 0


Join waitlist

Join MAA members on an awesome 2-for-1 expedition to Mt. Hood and Smith Rock, Oregon. This iconic volcano should be on every climber's list - and Smith Rock is equally and amazing in a very different way. We'll spend 6 days in Oregon with 2-3 days camping on Hood to attempt the Leuthold Couloir and the Reid Headwall, and at the beginning and end of the trip relax on the many interesting routes at Smith. Expedition recommended for members who are proficient with self-arrest and roped snow climbing on steep, icy snow and experienced in outdoor rock climbing. Dates are flexible, you can come for all or a portion of the week. Loaner gear will be available. We have room for 10. Hope to have you out with us!

Screened Event: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on MAA profile. Those registered will be notified by email.


  • What's happening: 6-day expedition focused on climbing Mt. Hood 11,239', Leuthold Couloir route and the Reid Headwall, approx. 5,400 ft. ascent, snow and ice to 55 degrees, exposure. Bookending the trip we'll be enjoying the many amazing sport and trad routes at Smith. We are heading up at the beginning of the season to get optimally frozen conditions on Hood and experience a few night camping on the mountain, where we can have ready access to the best steep snow and ice routes on the west side. Additionally, it will be cooler down in the desert at Smith in April. 
  • Where to meet: 6:00 pm Monday, April 4th at the climber's bivy campground at Smith Rock State Park. It is $8 per night to stay there.
  • Volunteer Event Leader: Darren Shutt (916) 872-3399,
  • Minimum / Maximum: 2/10
  • Skills and Fitness Requirements: Ability to snow climb 3,000' in 4-6 hours in freezing temperatures, proficient and practiced self-arrest ability, experience climbing steep snow and ice with two tools in a rope team, experience belaying.
  • Travel Coordination: We'll make arrange logistics for flying or driving in March. It is possible to fly into Redmond, which is very close to Smith. We can arrange pickup and drop off at the airport.
  • What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, headlamp, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, mountain axe with leash or runner to connect to harness, second tool, food, waterbottles, trekking pole(s). Bring camping gear such as tent, sleeping bag, pad. For Smith Rock bring rock shoes, belay device, carabiners, chalk, rock pro and rope if you have it.
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.


  • PRIOR: Travel and expedition coordination conference call, TBD in March 2022.
  • DAY 1: Monday, April 4th: Meet at the climber's bivy campground tables for dinner, planning and logistics.
  • DAYS 2-4: Tuesday, April 5th - Friday April 8th: As dictated by weather and interest, climbing on Mt. Hood or climbing at Smith Rock. 
  • HOOD: We will drive up to Timberline Lodge in the morning, about 2 hrs. At the climber's cave we'll obtain our permit and blue bags. We'll start up the South Side route and veer left by Illumination Rock to set up camp for the next two or three days. When climbing Leuthold, we'll begin at midnight to descend to the glacier then begin the ascent up Leuthold in teams of three. Climb the couloir placing protection as necessary. Summit by 10:00 am, descend the Southside route back to camp. Reid Headwall routes will be a similar itinerary. When we head down it should take about 2 hours and we can be back in the Timberline Lodge parking area in time to make the drive back to Smith Rock and bivy there again.
  • SMITH: Depending upon weather and interest, we may climb at Smith on Tuesday or Friday, or both. All climbing days will start from the bivy campground. 
  • DAY 5: Saturday, May 8th: Heading home. 


  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

  • This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance. 

  • MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

  • MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

  • Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

  • Participant safety is our top priority. Circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

  • As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

  • All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 692-0005

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