Adamants Expedition, BC Canada

Join MAA Members on a 12-day expedition to Adamant Mountain and neighboring peaks in the wild Northern Selkirks of BC Canada.  We'll climb stellar ice and rock routes on these remote, striking granite peaks, with base camps on the glaciers. Routes will require a high degree of fitness and skills in all alpine disciplines - prior experience climbing glaciers and multi-pitch alpine rock / ice required. We are looking for a team of 8 stoked climbers to join us. This is MAA's capstone mountaineering expedition for 2024 - none longer or more awesome! Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please register to express your interest. ELs will interview and select each team members based on their fit for the expedition, teamwork, climbing proficiency and experience. If you have an interest, please join the list!

DETAILS:

• What's happening: 12 days of stellar alpine climbing a rich array of objectives in the Northern Selkirk Adamant Range mountains, centered around Adamant Mountain, and including Turret Peak, Austerity Mountain, The Ironman, Pioneer Peak, The Blackfriars, The Gothics, and Sentinel Peak.  Climbing ice, rock and snow routes up to Grade V, AI4, 5.9. Glacier travel, alpine ice climbing, backcountry and glacial navigation and camping. Rock is very good - all granite - and there will be opportunities for all disciplines of climbing, often on the same route (snow, glacier, ice, rock, altitude, even aid, etc.). This is a very remote area, so wilderness ethic and risk considerations will be matched. Like most parties, we will helicopter in and out, in order to bring all we need and spend more time climbing and less time bushwhacking! A comfortable basecamp on the Granite Glacier. Loaner gear may be available.
• Potential north / east side routes: Adamant North Ridge via Kaufmann Variation, 5.5, AI3, Grade III, Austerity Standard Route 5.4, AI3, Grade III, Austerity East Face, 5.6, AI3, Grade III, Austerity NE "Nester" Ridge, 5.7, AI3, Aid, Grade IV, Pioneer Peak NE Ridge 5.8, AI2, Grade III.
• Potential west side routes: Ironman, Gothics, Adamant SW Buttress, Blackfriars Peak North Couloir (unknown)
• Where to meet: Golden, BC Canada
• Event Leaders: Darren Shutt, Kelvin Nguyen
• Minimum / Maximum: 3,8
• Participant Cost: Estimated to be $900 per person. This pays for helicopter rides to and from, EL travel, fuel and group gear.  
• Skills Requirements: Participants should be experienced in and know how to climb, traverse and rescue on glacial terrain, climb multi-pitch ice / alpine ice, climb fifth class rock in mountaineering boots, lead belay, rappel, and clean ice and rock protection, as well as backcountry and glacial travel and camping. 
• What to bring: Warm technical ice climbing boots, sharp ice crampons, a pair of sharp technical ice tools, mountain axe, harness, belay device, 3 locking carabiners, 2 slings, prusik, Tibloc or Micro traxion, a snow picket, 16 cm ice screw, PAS, helmet, base layers, mid layers, shell layers, puffy with hood, 4 pair socks, gloves, mountain glasses, 20-40 liter alpine climbing pack, 40-60 liter load hauling pack, sleeping bag, mats, tent, food for 12 days, 2 liter water carrying capacity, trekking poles, map, compass, strong headlamp with extra batteries, a few shovels and glacier wands for the group. Each person will carry crevasse rescue gear. MAA may supply some or all of the group technical equipment, ropes, tents, group shelter, stoves, and fuel.
• Travel and gear coordination: International travel to Canada requires a valid passport. Flying or driving are both OK. We'll make travel and gear arrangements on the shared group spreadsheet. Please plan at least a day for travel before and after the official dates. 
• Exact helicopter prices are still being secured. Fares are approximately $650 for the round trip flight if we have 8 people.  
• Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.

POTENTIAL ITINERARY:

• PRIOR: We will arrange gear and logistics online and on a conference call TBD, will communicate with registrants.
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• DAY 0 - Sunday, August 4th: Travel day to Golden BC. Assemble team, review logistics, lodging for the night.
• DAY 1 - Monday, August 5th: Gather in Golden in the morning. Drive to Swan Creek. 2:00 pm Helicopter to 8,800' on the Gothic Glacier on the north side of the Adamants. Dig in basecamp, settle in. 
• DAY 2 - Tuesday, August 6th: Recon / acclimatize. Get a first look at conditions and opportunities. Check out Pioneer pass and climb an easy peak close by, such as Pioneer Peak from the Gothic Glacier.
  
• DAY 3 - Wednesday, August 7th: Climb the North Ridge of Adamant Mountain and return to basecamp. 
• DAY 4 - Thursday, August 8th: Climb a technical route on Pioneer Peak.
• DAY 5 - Friday, August 9th: Climb the Standard Route, Nester Ridge, or East Face of Austerity, rappel down the Austerity / Ironman Col to scout possible way over to the Austerity Glacier. Return to basecamp.
• DAY 6 - Saturday, August 10th: Climb Adamant SW Buttress 
• DAY 7 - Sunday, August 11th: Rest day, some will have a rest day at the Fairy Meadows Hut.
• DAY 8 - Monday, August 12th: Move basecamp over to the Austerity Glacier via the Austerity / Ironman Col.
• DAY 9 - Tuesday, August 13th: Climb Blackfriars North Couloir or The Ironman SW Buttress.
• DAY 10 - Wednesday, August 14th: Return to basecamp on the Gothic Glacier
• DAY 11 - Thursday, August 15th: Final climb / contingency. Prepare for pickup tomorrow.
• DAY 12 - Friday, August 16th: Helicopter pickup 2:00 pm to return to Golden. Celebratory dinner! 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

• MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

• MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

• Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

• Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

• As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

• All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

• The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

• MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.