Mt. Jefferson Expedition (optional Smith Rock)

  • 06/03/2020
  • 5:00 PM
  • 06/06/2020
  • 8:00 PM
  • Mt. Jefferson
  • 0


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Join MAA APEX members an an expedition to climb Mt. Jefferson by a technical glacier route. This is the second-highest mountain in Oregon and an elusive alpine peak. We'll climb the Jefferson Park Glacier route with a mix of glacier travel, steep arete mixed climbing and a spicy 4th class summit pinnacle at 10,497. For APEX members only - please upgrade as a renewal here. Prior experience in roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue (ICE-R) and roped climbing on steep snow and rock required (SNOW 3, SNOW 4). Loaner gear may be available. We have room for 10. $179 expedition fee required to confirm reservation. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: This event is for APEX Members only. Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified, please pay the expedition fee to confirm. Thank you! 


  • What's happening: 3-day ascent of Mt. Jefferson via the Jefferson Park Glacier route. Climbing 6,400' total elevation. 5+ mile approach to Jefferson Park camping. Roped glacier travel among crevasses, crossing a bergschrund, steep mixed climbing on snow and 4th class rock climbing. Possibly desert rock climbing if we end up at Smith Rocks instead.
  • Where to meet: Bend, OR 5:00 pm Wednesday June 3rd. Exact location TBD.
  • Event Leader: Darren Shutt, (916) 872-3399
  • Minimum / Maximum: 4,10
  • Required Skills and Fitness: Proficiency in roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue, proficiency in roped lead climbing on steep mixed snow and 4th class rock, rappelling, navigation, wilderness camping, and robust fitness to handle three long days consecutively. 
  • Shared Group Cost: $179. This covers a portion of the volunteer event leader mileage for gear transport, and a portion of the mandatory gear usage fee. 
  • Payment Due: May 5th. If payment is not received by the deadline then a registrant will be moved back to the waitlist.
  • Refunds: Full refunds can be issued 90 days from the trip date. Between 30 and 90 days, only 50% refunds are possible. Closer than 30 days no refund is possible.
  • What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Belay device, prusik, 2 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners, 2 runners, harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, pair of ice tools and/or mountain axe, food for 3 nights / 4 days, waterbottles with insulating sleeve, spoon, cup, warm sleeping bag, sleeping pad, trekking pole(s). Rock shoes just in case the weather is really bad! Technical equipment such as rope, rock and snow protection, and stove, pots, fuel and tents may be supplied by MAA. Bring what you have of these items and we'll select the group gear. Leave about 10 liters of space and up to 10 lbs for group gear. 
  • Bobcat's Adventure SportsMAA Apex and Base members enjoy a significant retail discount on mountaineering, ice climbing, rock climbing, skiing, splitboarding, and backcountry clothing, equipment and gear, as well as consignment and rentals. 
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration. 
  • Additional: The itinerary is dependent upon conditions and weather. 


  • PRIOR: Expedition conference call and logistics coordination, in May 2020, TBD
  • DAY 1, Wednesday, June 3rd: Meet and greet in Bend in the evening. Check conditions. Discuss our plan, sort gear, logistics. 
  • DAY 2, Thursday, June 4th: Early start from Bend, drive Hwy 22 to FS Road 2243, to trailhead. Hike at least 5 miles to Jefferson Park 5,800' to set up camp and get ready for tomorrow. Total elevation gain approx. 1,800'
  • DAY 3, Friday, June 5th: Pre-dawn start ascend Jefferson Park Glacier to the arete, traverse to join the north ridge route, continue to 4th class summit pinnacle. Rappell or downclimb back to north ridge and descend Russell Glacier to camp. Long day, (14 - 18 hrs.) 4,600 elevation gain and descent, all over technical terrain. 
  • DAY 4, Saturday, June 6th: Break camp, return to the trailhead, return home. Or contingency for bad weather.


  • In order to register you must be an Apex member.
  • Event leaders are experienced volunteers, but may not be certified guides.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 692-0005

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