Mt. Hood Expedition (optional Smith Rock)

  • 05/29/2019
  • 5:00 PM
  • 06/01/2019
  • 6:00 PM
  • Government Camp, OR
  • 0


Registration is closed

Join MAA members to climb Oregon's famous Mt. Hood via the South Side Route. This iconic volcano should be on every climber's list - and this route is a classic non-technical ascent that still provides a sense of exposure and adventure. Recommended for members who are proficient with self-arrest and snow climbing on steep snow. Loaner gear will be available. We have room for 12. Also included in this itinerary is an optional day climbing at Smith Rock. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience. Those registered will be notified. 


  • What's happening: Mt. Hood 11,239', South Side route, approx 5,400 ft. ascent, snow to 40 degrees, exposure. We will bring a rope and simple crevasse rescue equipment, but will not climb roped. Maximum of three days to find an optimal weather window. If successful our contingency day can be spent rock climbing at Smith Rock State Rock near Bend, or ascending another route on Hood. 
  • Where to meet: 5:00 pm at the Government Camp Rest Area, Milepost 54, Mt Hood Hwy, Government Camp, OR 97028
  • Event Leader: Darren Shutt (916) 872-3399,
  • Minimum / Maximum: 4/12
  • Travel Coordination: Please view this discussion to arrange carpooling and logistics for flying or driving. View information for the the "Bivy" campground at Smith Rock. 
  • What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, headlamp, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, mountain axe with leash or runner to connect to harness, food, waterbottles, trekking pole(s). Bring camping gear such as tent, sleeping bag, pad, etc. if camping. If planning to go to Smith Rock afterward, bring rock shoes, belay device, carabiners, chalk, etc.
  • Participant Expedition Fee: $109 per person which pays for EL mileage reimbursement and mandatory group gear usage deposit. Registration is confirmed when this has been paid. If the group stays at the Smith Rock CG, it is $8 per person per night, each person will take of that individually. 
  • Refund policy: Full refunds outside of 90 days, 50% refund between 30 and 90 days, no refund possible closer than 30 days. 
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.
  • Additional Info: If we are successful on Thursday we have the option to climb another route on Hood or head south to Smith Rock State Park and do a little sport and trad climbing on Friday, or vice versa. Bring your rock shoes!


  • PRIOR: Expedition Conference Call Tuesday, March 26th, 7:00 pm - 8:00 pm
  • PRIOR: Travel Coordination on the member's forum posting on the MAA website
  • DAY 1: Wednesday, May 29th: Meet at the Government Camp Rest Area, (Milepost 54, Mt. Hood Hwy, Government Camp, OR 97028) for dinner and gear logistics. Staying the night at free Forest Service camping pullouts or Timberline Lodge parking lot.
  • DAY 2: Thursday, May 30th: First attempt. Meet at 12:00 a.m. (Wednesday midnight) in the Timberline Lodge climber's cave and get permit and blue bags. Start the walk by headlamp up the South Side route, 5,400' ascent. Stay on the right side of the ski area, climb to Crater Rock from the right and obtain the Hogsback ridge. Likely take the Pearly Gates finish. Summit by 10:00 am, descend same route, or if crowded, the Old Chute variation, then retracing our steps all the way back down. We should be back in the Timberline Lodge parking area by 4:00 pm. Late lunch / dinner. Drive south to stay the night at the Smith Rock climber's "bivy" camp, or spend another night near Government Camp for more climbing on Mt. Hood. If the weather is really bad this day we may choose another activity.
  • DAY 3: Friday, May 31st: Contingency day. Climbing at Smith Rock, or more Mt. Hood Climbing. Expedition participants have the option of heading home this day as well. 
  • DAY 4: Saturday, June 1st: One last summit attempt or day of climbing, or drive home.


  • In order to register you must be a Base, Peak, or Apex member.
  • Event leaders are experienced volunteers, but may not be certified guides.
  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 692-0005

Log in
  • Home
  • Mt. Hood Expedition (optional Smith Rock)
Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software