Join MAA on a combo MTN 3 training and backcountry climb of this solitary sentinel. Seldom seen except by those traversing the Sawtooth Range, Blacksmith peak is a stunning blade of granite and the northern end of the High Sierra. We'll make the ascent over the course of 1.5 days, and also provide a chance to practice MTN 3 Expedition Mountaineering training concepts. Recommended for those already fit, ready to bivouac and familiar with multi-pitch alpine climbing. Loaner gear may be available. We have room for 6. Hope to have you out with us!
SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience. Those registered will be notified. Thank you!
What's happening: Blacksmith Peak 11,760' S or SW Face, up to 5.8, Grade II. We approach and descend from this route partially on the Horse Creek Trail and the rest is cross country hiking and scrambling, crossing through the notch of The Cleaver and over Glacier Col. There is no established way up the class 3/4 South Face. We will strive for a challenging but straightforward trad line no harder than 5.8, and will rappel and/or downclimb. As an alternate objective Cleaver Peak is shorter and easier and could be climbed from Glacier Col.
Note: Even though Blacksmith is a technically easy climb, the length, route finding, and uncertainty may make it a physically and mentally challenging climb. Since it is November we must be prepared for snow, cold, and less than ideal conditions, and we will adjust our ambition accordingly.
Where to meet: Friday, November 6th at noon at Jolly Kone, Bridgeport, CA.
Event Leader: Darren Shutt, (916) 872-3399
Minimum / Maximum: 2-6
What to bring: Rock shoes, harness, helmet, belay device, three locking carabiners, PAS, cordellette, prusik, 40 liter or smaller pack, mountain boots, mountaineering crampons, mountain axe, trekking pole(s), bivy sack, sleeping bag, pad, sunglasses, personal items, appropriate layers, storm shells, gloves, map and compass, food, at least 2 liters of water, stove, fuel, pot (may be group gear). Bring your rack and ropes if you'd like to share them, and MAA will also provide ropes and gear. We will use shorter, lightweight ropes.
Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.
- DAY 1, Friday November 6th: Meet at noon at the one and only Jolly Kone in Bridgeport, CA. We'll catch lunch then drive to the end of Twin Lakes road and sort gear. Starting at 7,200' we'll head up the trail on our way to the notch of The Cleaver. Somewhere along the way before dark we'll select a bivy site, enjoy a meal and catch a few winks.
- DAY 2, Saturday, November 7th: We'll stash our bivy gear and continue up to Glacier Col and drop down the other side to the start of the route at the foot of the south face. We'll climb up the face keeping the difficulties below 5.8, with a goal of reaching the 11,760' summit before noon. Downclimb and/or rappel back, pick up our bivy gear and reverse our path all the way back to the trailhead. Catch dinner in town!
This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.
This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance.
MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.
MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.
Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.
Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.
As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.
All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.
The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.