Mt. Hood North Face, Smith Rock

Join MAA members to climb Mt. Hood by memorable, technical glacier routes with Smith Rock as a alternative. This is the highest mountain in Oregon and a popular mountaineering objective. During the best and longest weather window we'll climb multiple north side routes from a scenic backcountry camp. Otherwise, we'll be hanging at the fun rock climbing mecca that is Smith Rock. Prior experience in glacier travel and steep snow climbing required, and experience in glacier rescue and alpine /water ice climbing preferred. Loaner gear may be available. We have room for 12. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified. Thank you! 

DETAILS:

• What's happening: Ascent of the north faces of Mt. Hood 11,239 via any of the following: Eliot Glacier routes, Eliot Headwall routes, Cooper Spur routes or the North Face routes. Roped glacier travel among crevasses, crossing a bergschrund, climbing on moderate snow / alpine ice. Starting at the Tilly Jane TH and ascending to dig in camp above timberline, from which we'll ascend and descend for as many days as possible, or desired. Possibly desert rock climbing if we end up at Smith Rocks instead due to poor weather. During the week of April 10 - 16, Smith Rock will be our basecamp and backup to our mountain objectives. 
• Where to meet: Smith Rock State Park in Oregon, at the Climbers Bivouac area at 5:00 pm on Thursday, April 10th. Different itineraries of arriving later or leaving earlier are OK as long as you coordinate with the event leader.
• Event Leader: Darren Shutt, (916) 872-3399 darren@mountainascent.org
• Minimum / Maximum: 4,12
• Required Skills and Fitness: Proficiency in roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue, proficiency in roped lead climbing on moderate snow / 4th class rock, rappelling, navigation, and robust fitness to handle up to three long days. For Smith Rock, ability to tie in, safely belay, and lower partners independently. 
• What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Belay device, prusik, 2 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners, 2 runners, harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, pair of ice tools and/or mountain axes, food for 5 days, waterbottles, spoon, cup, warm sleeping bag, sleeping pad, robust mountain tent, stove, fuel, pot, optional trekking pole(s). Rock shoes in the case we end up climbing at Smith Rock. Technical equipment such as rope, rock and snow protection may be supplied by MAA. 
• Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration. 
• Additional: The itinerary is dependent upon conditions and weather. 

ITINERARY:

• PRIOR: Conference call and logistics coordination late March, TBD
• DAY 1 - Thursday, April 10th: Gather at 5:00 pm at the Climbers Bivouac campground at Smith Rock, Oregon. We'll meet each other for dinner, set up camp and hold a team meeting to decide on our itinerary. If it all looks good we'll start on Hood the next day. If conditions aren't good we'll stay to climb in Smith Rock until conditions are acceptable. 
• DAY 2 - Friday, April 11th: We'll drive around the north side to the Tilly Jane trailhead and park. We'll ascend around 3 miles and approx. 1,500' to select and dig in a comfortable and scenic camp site right at timberline and below the North Face / Cooper Spur routes. 
• DAY 3 - Saturday, April 12th: With a pre-dawn start, arranged teams will climb our chosen route(s) to the summit, then return to camp.  
• DAYS 4 - 7: Sunday April 13th - Wednesday, April 16th: Continued climbing on Hood. As a contingency for poor weather or unfavorable conditions we'll be rock climbing at Smith Rock State Park. 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

• This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

• This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance. 

• MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

• MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

• Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

• Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

• As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

• All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

• The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

• MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.