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Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Glacier Left Ice Gully and ICE-R training

  • 05/22/2023
  • 8:00 AM
  • 05/27/2023
  • 4:00 PM
  • Brewer Creek TH
  • 0


Registration is closed

Join MAA members for Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue training (ICE-R) and a climb of Mt. Shasta via an incredible glacier route. The Hotlum Glacier Left Ice Gully is the most technical glacier and ice route on Mt. Shasta, requiring an ascent of the entire Hotlum Glacier through the ice falls, over a bergschrund up many pitches of alpine snow and ice to the summit ridge. To prepare we'll spend a day in comprehensive glacier travel and crevasse rescue practice (ICE-R) from a comfortable basecamp. The non-technical Hotlum-Wintun Ridge is also an option as an ascent route. Loaner gear will be available. We have room for 10. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience as shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified. Thank you! 


  • What's happening: ICE-R Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue training and an ascent of Mt. Shasta via the Hotlum Glacier Left Ice Gully route, AI2, crevasses, steep snow and alpine ice (55 degrees), total 4,500' ascent from basecamp. Team must cross the bergschrund at the top of the Hotlum Glacier and simul-climb steep alpine ice, AI2 or AI3. We also have the option to ascend the non-technical Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, which will likely be our descent route.
  • Where to meet: At the Fifth Season at noon, in the town of Mt. Shasta. 
  • Volunteer Event Leader: Darren Shutt,
  • Minimum / Maximum: 4,10
  • Pre-requisite skills: Experience and ability in steep snow and alpine ice climbing, simul-climbing with two tools, basic understanding of snow and ice anchors (SNOW 4) and mechanical advantage systems, as well as mountain camping and travel (MTN 1). 
  • Fees / Regulations: There is a fee to climb, $25 per instance or $30 for the year. You will also need to pack out all solid waste. Blue bags provided. Both can be handled at the trailhead. Please see info here.
  • What to bring: List will be sent in body of registration confirmation email
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.
  • Additional Info: Shasta summit pass is required


  • PRIOR: Conference call May 7th 7:00 - 8:00. Open to any interested MAA member, whether or not you are RSVPed. 
  • DAY 1 - Monday, May 22nd: Drive to and meet in the town of Mt. Shasta at the Firth Season for lunch, permits and gear. Drive to the North Gate trailhead and camp.
  • DAY 2 - Tuesday, May 23rd: Make our way to a high camp at the foot of the Hotlum Glacier. Preliminary glacier rescue training.
  • DAY 3 - Wednesday, May 24th: Hands-on glacier and crevasse rescue training on the Hotlum Glacier, then returning to basecamp. Set up teams and gear up for early start tomorrow. This training experience also helps with route familiarity and acclimatization.
  • DAY 4 - Thursday, May 25th: With a pre-dawn start, ascend the Hotlum Glacier through the icefalls, over the bergschrund, up the Left Ice Gully to the summit ridge. Summit before noon. Descend the Hotlum Wintun Ridge back to basecamp.
  • DAY 5 - Friday, May 26th: Weather day / rest day. If all went well we have the option to pack up camp and start heading home.
  • DAY 6 - Saturday, May 27th: From wherever we are, complete the journey home. 


  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

  • This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance. 

  • MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

  • MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

  • Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

  • Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

  • As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

  • All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 872-3399

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