North Peak North Couloir

  • 10/18/2020
  • 3:00 AM - 6:00 PM
  • Saddlebag Lake, Tioga Pass, CA
  • 0



Come climb North Peak North Couloir with other MAA members.  This is a technical ascent of a popular Tioga Pass peak and a good introduction to alpine ice and rock climbing. The North Couloir is the classic line that offers all the elements of a dream alpine day trip with snow, rock, and ice all in one. Loaner gear may be available to paid members. Maximum two teams of two climbers, recommended for those with SNOW 4, ICE 1, RCK 5 or equivalent experience.

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on MAA profile. Those registered will be notified.


  • WHERE: Tioga Pass, east side of Yosemite National Park. 
  • ROUTE: North Peak via North Peak Couloir ( This is a 4-pitch AI2 climb with a few hundred feet of 4th class / low 5th class rope pitches to finish. In the couloir we'll probably encounter light snow on top of very hard ice and snow on the approach and descent. Expect stunning scenery and brisk temperatures!
  • EVENT LEADER: Doug Harris
  • MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM GROUP SIZE: 2 and 4 respectively.
  • CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIREMENTS: In order to be best prepared to climb safely and effectively, participants should be able to hike 5 miles at altitude with 30 pound pack, ascend to 13,000 feet and feel comfortable with multi-pitch climbing on ice and snow covered easy rock. 
  • PERSONAL GEAR: Members are encouraged to use your own equipment. If you're missing something, loaner gear may be available. Please let the event leader know if you need something. 
  • MEDICAL: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after you’ve been accepted on the team.
  • GETTING THERE: Meet at 3 am at Saddlebag Lake trail-head parking area (The entrance to the trail-head parking area is on the right side of the dirt road across from the dam. See MAP for parking entrance location). This is outside YNP, up Tioga Pass from Lee Vining.
  • EMERGENCIES: 911, closest hospital is Mammoth Hospital in Mammoth Lakes, CA.


  • Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating, weather-resistant mid layer, top and bottom
  • Soft shell
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill or down belay jacket, w/hood
  • Socks
  • Gloves
  • Gaiters (optional)
  • Sunglasses
  • Warm hat and/or balaclava
  • Sun hat or covering
  • Backpack (no larger than 45L)
  • High energy food, snacks and drinks
  • Water bottles or container system
  • Strong headlamp with fresh batteries
  • Map and compass
  • Sunscreen and lip balm
  • Small personal first aid kit
  • Optional items for consideration: altimeter, trekking poles, camera, small knife or multi-tool, bandana
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Harness*
  • Climbing helmet*
  • Sharp steel 10-12 point crampons, fit to your boots*
  • Ice tools x 2*
  • 3 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners*
  • Two tied or sewn runners, 24" to 48"*
  • Cordellette or quad, 5mm - 7mm, 15' - 20'*
  • Belay device*
  • Ropes, protection, slings* (may be group gear)

*If you are without some of this important safety gear, it may be available for loan upon prior request, first-come, first serve.


  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited on this event, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.

  • This event is open to all Apex, Base, and free Associate members - paid membership is not a requirement of attendance. 

  • MAA is a 100% volunteer-run, federal and state recognized 501(c)7 not-for-profit membership organization and does not seek or realize a profit from organizing this event; all membership benefits, liability insurance, website, database, administrative costs and all expenses are supported solely through membership, not event fees.

  • MAA event leaders are experienced members who are board-approved and volunteer to host the event as a representative of MAA, but are not operating as a guide or compensated as a guide - all participants on the event share responsibility for the safety, decisions, and actions of the group.

  • Accordingly, the physical demands, required skills or technical terrain of some events require that we screen participants; individuals should join the waitlist to be considered for RSVP. The experience, skills and fitness in the MAA membership profile will be used to determine the suitability of each individual to the demands of that particular event.

  • Participant safety is our top priority. Many circumstances such as mountain conditions, weather, or subjective hazards may necessitate changes to the published itinerary, including cancellation.

  • As a private, non-commercial group we operate within the posted group size limits and regulations for this area.

  • All MAA members are taught and practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.

  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader at a minimum has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

    For more information or questions about this climbing event, please contact the listed event leaders, or, or (916) 692-0005.

    (916) 692-0005

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