Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Glacier Left Ice Gully and ICE-R training

  • 06/29/2020
  • 7:00 AM
  • 07/03/2020
  • 4:00 PM
  • Brewer Creek TH
  • 9



Join MAA Apex members for Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue training (ICE-R) and a climb of Mt. Shasta via an incredible glacier route. The Hotlum Glacier Left Ice Gully is the most technical glacier and ice route on Mt. Shasta, requiring an ascent of the entire Hotlum Glacier through the ice falls, over a bergschrund up many pitches of alpine snow and ice to the summit ridge. To prepare we'll spend two days in comprehensive glacier travel and crevasse rescue practice (ICE-R) from a comfortable basecamp. For APEX members only - please upgrade as a renewal here. Loaner gear will be available. We have room for 10. Hope to have you out with us!


  • What's happening: ICE-R Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue training and an ascent of Mt. Shasta via the Hotlum Glacier Left Ice Gully route, AI2, crevasses, steep snow and alpine ice (55 degrees), total 4,500' ascent from basecamp. Team must cross the bergschrund at the top of the Hotlum Glacier and simul-climb steep alpine ice, AI2 or AI3. We also have the option to ascend the non-technical Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, which will likely be our descent route.
  • Where to meet: At the Brewer Creek Trailhead. Details will be worked out with registrants. 
  • Event Leader: Darrren Shutt,
  • Minimum / Maximum: 4,6
  • Pre-requisite skills: Experience and ability in steep snow and alpine ice climbing, simul-climbing with two tools, basic understanding of snow and ice anchors (SNOW 4) and mechanical advantage systems, as well as mountain camping and travel (MTN 1). 
  • Fees / Regulations: There is a fee to climb, $25 per instance or $30 for the year. You will also need to pack out all solid waste. Blue bags provided. Both can be handled at the trailhead. Please see info here.
  • Bobcat's Adventure SportsMAA Apex and Base members enjoy a significant retail discount on mountaineering, ice climbing, rock climbing, skiing, splitboarding, and backcountry clothing, equipment and gear, as well as consignment and rentals. What to bring: List will be sent in body of registration confirmation email
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.
  • Additional Info: Shasta summit pass is required


  • DAY 1 - Monday, June 29th: Meet and/or drive to Brewer Creek trailhead. Sort and final packing, then make the approach to arrive at basecamp and get completely set up before dark. 
  • DAYS 2 and 3 - Tuesday, June 30th - Wednesday July 1st: Extensive hands-on glacier and crevasse rescue training on the Hotlum Glacier, returning to basecamp each day. This will also help with route familiarity and acclimatization.
  • DAY 4 - Thursday, July 2nd: With a pre-dawn start, ascend the Hotlum Glacier through the icefalls, over the bergschrund, up the Left Ice Gully to the summit ridge. Descend the Hotlum Wintun Ridge back to basecamp.
  • DAY 5 - Friday, July 3rd: Pack up camp and return to the trailhead. 


  • In order to register you must be an Apex member.
  • Event leaders are experienced volunteers, but may not be certified guides.
  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 692-0005

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