Mt. Hood Expedition (optional Smith Rock)

  • 06/01/2020
  • 5:00 PM
  • 06/03/2020
  • 6:00 PM
  • Government Camp, OR
  • 7



Join MAA APEX members on the Mt. Hood Expedition. This iconic volcano should be on every climber's list - and the south side route is a classic non-technical ascent that still provides a sense of exposure and adventure. Recommended for members who are proficient with self-arrest and snow climbing on steep snow. APEX members only. You can upgrade your membership as a renewal here.Loaner gear will be available. We have room for 12. If the weather is uncooperative we'll be climbing at Smith Rock. Hope to have you out with us!


  • What's happening: 3-day expedition to Mt. Hood 11,239', South Side route, approx 5,400 ft. ascent, snow to 45 degrees, exposure. We will bring a rope and simple crevasse rescue equipment, but will not climb roped. Maximum of three days to find an optimal weather window. If conditions are not good we'll go rock climbing at Smith Rock State Rock near Bend. 
  • Where to meet: 5:00 pm at the Government Camp Rest Area, Milepost 54, Mt Hood Hwy, Government Camp, OR 97028
  • Event Leader: Darren Shutt (916) 872-3399,
  • Minimum / Maximum: 4/12
  • Skills and Fitness Requirements: Ability to climb 3,000' in 4-6 hours in freezing temperatures, proficient and practiced self-arrest ability
  • Travel Coordination: We'll make arrangements for carpooling and logistics for flying or driving in 2020. View information for the the "Bivy" campground at Smith Rock. 
  • What to bring: Warm, stormproof layers for upper and lower body - 4 layers for upper and 3 layers for lower, minimum. 2 pair socks and gloves, warm mittens, warm headwear, headlamp, sunglasses, goggles, gaiters. Harness, helmet, warm mountain boots, sharp steel crampons fit to your boots, mountain axe with leash or runner to connect to harness, food, waterbottles, trekking pole(s). Bring camping gear such as tent, sleeping bag, pad, etc. if camping. If planning to go to Smith Rock afterward, bring rock shoes, belay device, carabiners, chalk, etc.
  • Group Shared Cost: $156 per person which pays for volunteer EL mileage reimbursement for gear transport and mandatory group gear usage deposit. Registration is confirmed when this has been paid. If the group stays at the Smith Rock CG, it is $8 per person per night, each person will take care of that individually. 
  • Refund policy: Full refunds outside of 90 days, 50% refund between 30 and 90 days, no refund possible closer than 30 days. 
  • Bobcat's Adventure SportsMAA Apex and Base members enjoy a significant retail discount on mountaineering, ice climbing, rock climbing, skiing, splitboarding, and backcountry clothing, equipment and gear, as well as consignment and rentals. 
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.
  • Additional Info: If we are successful on the first try we have the option to climb another route on Hood or head south to Smith Rock State Park and do a little sport and trad climbing, or vice versa. Bring your rock shoes!


  • PRIOR: Expedition Conference Call TBD, probably May 2020
  • PRIOR: Travel coordination will be posted on the member's forum posting on the MAA website in 2020
  • DAY 1: Monday, June 1st: Meet at the Government Camp Rest Area, (Milepost 54, Mt. Hood Hwy, Government Camp, OR 97028) for dinner and gear logistics. Staying the night at free Forest Service camping pullouts or Timberline Lodge parking lot.
  • DAY 2: Tuesday, June 2nd: Meet at 12:01 a.m. in the Timberline Lodge climber's cave and get permit and blue bags. Start the walk by headlamp up the South Side route, 5,400' ascent. Stay on the right side of the ski area, climb to Crater Rock from the right and obtain the Hogsback ridge. Likely take the Pearly Gates finish. Summit by 10:00 am, descend same route, or if crowded, the Old Chute variation, then retracing our steps all the way back down. We should be back in the Timberline Lodge parking area by 4:00 pm. Late lunch / dinner. Drive south to stay the night at the Smith Rock climber's "bivy" camp, or spend another night near Government Camp for more climbing on Mt. Hood. If the weather is really bad this day we may choose another activity.
  • DAY 3: Wednesday, June 3rd: Contingency day. Climbing at Smith Rock, or more Mt. Hood Climbing. Expedition participants have the option of heading home this day as well. 


  • In order to register you must be a current APEX member.
  • Event leaders are experienced volunteers, but may not be certified guides.
  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 692-0005

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