North Palisade, U-Notch AI2, 5.4

  • 06/12/2020
  • 7:00 AM
  • 06/14/2020
  • 8:00 PM
  • 0


Join waitlist

Join MAA on North Palisade to climb the forever classic U-Notch Couloir. Widely regarded as one of the most interesting alpine routes anywhere, with a combination of ice, rock and scrambling that culminates in the summit of this popular California Fourteener. For APEX members only - please upgrade as a renewal here. Prior experience climbing steep snow, alpine ice and multi-pitch rock climbing required (ICE 2, SNOW 4, ROCK 6). Loaner gear may be available. We have room for 6. Hope to have you out with us!

SCREENED EVENT: This event is for APEX Members only. Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on their MAA profile. Those registered will be notified. Thank you! 


  • What's happening: North Palisade 14,242' via the U-Notch Couloir route, AI2, 5.4, three days, 12 miles trail travel each way. Ascent will take between 14-20 hours.
  • Where to meet: In Big Pine CA, location TBD
  • Event Leader: Doug Harris
  • Minimum / Maximum: 2,6
  • Skills Requirements: Participants should be experienced in and know how to climb 60 degree alpine ice with two tools, climb mid-fifth class rock in mountaineering boots, belay, tie in, rappell and clean ice and rock protection, as well as standard backcountry and mountain travel and camping. 
  • What to bring: Mountaineering boots, sharp crampons, a pair of ice tools, harness, belay device, 3 locking carabiners, 2 slings, prusik, PAS, helmet, base layers, mid layers, shell layers, 2 pair socks, lightweight gloves, 30 - 55 liter climbing pack, sleeping bag, tent, food for 3 days, 2 liter water carrying capacity, trekking poles, gaiters, map, compass, strong headlamp with extra batteries, lightweight emergency bivy. MAA may supply some or all of the group technical equipment, ropes, tents, stoves, and fuel.
  • Bobcat's Adventure SportsMAA Apex and Base members enjoy a significant retail discount on mountaineering, ice climbing, rock climbing, skiing, splitboarding, and backcountry clothing, equipment and gear, as well as consignment and rentals. 
  • Medical: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after registration.


  • DAY 1 - June 12th: Meet in Big Pine, caravan up to the trailhead. Logistics, gear, review route to basecamp. Hike approx. 6 miles to basecamp below the Palisade Glacier.
  • DAY 2 - June 13th: With a pre-dawn start, ascend to and traverse the Palisade Glacier to the bottom of the U-Notch. Rope up and climb the bergschrund and then many pitches of alpine ice to the col, then a few pitches of easy fifth class rock to the summit ridge, to the summit. Descend the entire route by downclimbing and rappelling.
  • DAY 3 - June 14th: Break camp and head home.


  • In order to register you must be an Apex member.
  • Event leaders are experienced volunteers, but may not be certified guides.
  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

(916) 692-0005

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