I'm registered for the Mt. Shasta climb along Sargent's Ridge on April 1st and wanted to get conversations started for equipment, timing, logistics, and any additional route preparations. This will be my first entrance on a winter mountaineering route and reading the route descriptions possibly one of the more exposed crux's I've been on.

I'll be coming from Mountain View, CA and I plan on driving up the day prior and sleeping in my car or making the drive early in the morning. I should have room for one other person if needed (Mazda 3 hatchback).

Weather looks mostly OK to me with slight snow showers on and off all next week. https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Shasta/forecasts/4317

Snowpack looks generally stable given current snow/temperature forecast. https://www.shastaavalanche.org/ My understanding of the route is that there is not specifically in higher risk avi terrain anyways.

Group Gear I don't have

* 4 season tent

* Stove (I've got a basic iso-butane stove but worried the temps will affect them considerable, I've been eyeing something better)

I've also got a snow picket I can bring, extra snow tent stakes. I'll bring my snowshoes as I assume the route along the Bunny Flats and initial climb may warrant them but I'm not familiar with the current conditions.

Looking forward to getting some discussions going!

Hey guys,

I'll bring a whisperlite, fuel and a pot for melting snow.  I do not have a 4 season tent.  As far as ropes, pickets, etc, I am not familiar enough with this route to make that call.  If its just 50 degree snow climbing I'd be good without any pro.  As far as gear I'll be bringing both double and single boots.  Temps this week are looking extremely cold so if that continues it could a very chilly climb.

Hi Guys/Girls,

I just climbed Green Butte Ridge (including the top of Sargents Ridge) last weekend so I have some beta for you.

The Fifth season did not have permits. They informed me they would not have permits until April so they may have them on the 1st or maybe not. Either way you can get a permit for $25 at the trailhead - self registration. The trailhead permits are not the annual pass they are only good for 3 days.

There is tons of snow! However I dressed for a winter climb and it felt like July! So pay attention to the weather. For my climb it was around 60 degrees low on the mountain with no wind and only light clouds so it was Hot during the day. I slept at 10,000' and it was roughly 25 degrees at night. Also the sun was brutal, bring lots of sunscreen if your not going to be totally covered.

We climbed the ridge proper and did harness up and used a rope, pickets and slings/cordellete (to sling rocks).

Also we started the approach at 10am saturday and the snow was already starting to get soft. We wore/carried snow shoes and poles and even with the additional weight I was glad I did. Also there was a huge avalanche in Avy Gulch around valentines day, which on the mountain is invisible due to later snow fall. However when we descended the mountain via Avy Gulch we found varying soft and hard snow which became very soft to hard snow by late in the day. For this reason I was also happy to have snow shoes for the walk out. Up to you though.

Hope this helps, good luck to you all!

Kevin Geary

Super appreciative of the beta Kevin!

I also only have single boots, usually OK, I've used toe warmers with prior rented boots in January in Colorado a few years ago with good results. The weather so far seems to indicate a cold front is coming in and at the ~12k level temps look between ~0F and 20F.

Although I've climbed the Roman Wall (~40 deg) on Mt. Baker when it was quite icy we were roped up for the Easton glacier already. My experience on steep exposed snow without rope/protection is limited so I'm certainly predisposed to playing on the conservative side. I'm looking forward to having this experience. I'll bring my picket, my rope is a 70m (primarily rock use) so likely a no go. 

Darren, with several of us needing 4-season tents can we borrow them from the club?

Excited to get out with everyone!