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    <title>Mountain Ascent Association News</title>
    <link>https://mountainascent.org/</link>
    <description>Mountain Ascent Association blog posts</description>
    <dc:creator>Mountain Ascent Association</dc:creator>
    <generator>Wild Apricot - membership management software and more</generator>
    <language>en</language>
    <pubDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2026 15:23:50 GMT</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 Apr 2026 15:23:50 GMT</lastBuildDate>
    <item>
      <pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2020 03:56:51 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Historic video footage of capturing an ice climber in Cody, WY!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;News Flash!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Never seen footage of a live ice climber caught in a trap near the south fork of the Shoshone River in Cody, Wyoming. This report is an exclusive for MAA members! The name, cough-cough ... Paul S. ... cough, of the ice climber has been withheld to protect his Facebook presence from desperate circus-act recruiters. Props to Petzl for making such an effective/shiny lure. The planets must have been aligned on this 29th day of February (leap year day!) for such a rare occurrence to happen.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Video footage here: &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody%20Trapped%20Ice%20Climber.mp4" target="_blank"&gt;Trapped Ice Climber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody%20Trapped%20ice%20climber-1.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/8886723</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/8886723</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 07 Apr 2020 23:02:45 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Back-Country Ice Crushing in Cody, WY</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Last year a private team of MAA members headed to Cody, WY in search of reportedly endless amounts of back-country ice climbing. They determined that this was indeed the case, so this year MAA ran it's first ever Cody ice climbing expedition (late Feb - early Mar, 2020). To summarize ... it was EPIC! We secured a week rental in a awesome log-style cabin situated in the middle of a valley carved out by the Southfork of the Shoshone River. This remote region is the habitat of many wild animals including grizzly bears, wolves, bald eagles, ice climbers (we caught one live in a trap!), etc. As such, carrying bear spray while on our approaches was necessary! The mountains surrounding the South Fork host endless multi-pitch ice lines ranging from WI3 to WI6 (most in the 4-5 range). We found the approaches to be long (45min - 3 hours) and challenging. The ice was no different! We heard and confirmed that the ratings are a bit sand-bagged (maybe a number grade harder than recorded in the guidebook). This was definitely next-level ice climbing, and sooooo worth it! I think the highlight for most of us was climbing Smooth Emerald Milkshake (WI4, 7P, 250m). This was a full-value day! Almost a 3hr mostly snow approach, 6 pitches of amazing ice, cold front moving through, and three stoked 2-man teams who rocked a 13hr day. Our entire team agreed that this was a stellar trip, and so, we will be running it again next year.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here are some shweeet pix:&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody-A.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Our pad. What an epic view!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody-B.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Chillin after a great day on the ice.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody-C.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Paul starting out on the money pitch of Smooth Emerald Milkshake (WI4). Very cold brittle ice. We all thought it felt more like WI5.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody-D.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Pouty faces cuz we got denied on this (3rd) pitch of Broken Hearts. Very warm and ice was too thin, esp at the top. Based on the name we figured this may be a common issue.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody-E.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Last pitch of Wyoming Wave: Todd going up, Frederick rapping down. Great ice!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Cody-F.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Doug &amp;amp; Steve. I think they had permasmile for weeks afterwards. Wooohooooooooooo!&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/8886703</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/8886703</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 04 Feb 2020 03:42:19 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>San Gorgonio - Winter Climb</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;This past weekend MAA members, Mido, Robin, Renan and myself, ascended a very fun yet grueling 20 mile and 8800' total gain/loss ascent of San Gorgonio. The team set out at 10am on Saturday morning walking through the closed road to the trail head and quickly began the ascent up the initial switchbacks in cactus, yuccas and oak trees. This quickly gave way to alpine conditions and the team carefully made their way through icy trails and melting snow bridges to high creek camp with a beautiful view of Yucapia ridge. With a high wind advisory for Sunday afternoon of gusts up to 55mph, the team woke up at 3:30am and began their final ascent shortly after 4am. The initial ridge was steep and we were constantly looking for the stars to show through the trees signifying that we made our first goal. After reaching it, San Gorgonio's snow capped peak vaguely loomed in the sky and the team trodded along as the sunrise turned the sky orange and views of San Jacinto and the Salton Sea came into focus. A series of demoralizing false peaks were tempered by Robin's previous experience on the mountain (and his shared stash of Reese's Cups) and the summit was attained at 8:30AM. Everyone had made it and we quickly enjoyed a meal and made a hasty retreat to camp knowing full well that there many miles back to the car. The hike down was a series surprises at the steepness of sections we previously thought weren't that steep on the way up. As the miles dragged and 12 hours of constant motion weighed on us, we were extremely excited to finally make it back to the cars in time for the 2nd half of the Superbowl. Great times and great memories, thanks again team!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/gorgonio%202.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/gorgonio%203.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/gorgonio%204.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/gorgonio%205.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/8720689</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/8720689</guid>
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      <pubDate>Sat, 15 Jun 2019 23:19:14 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Sunrise on Chocolate Peak</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Kevin, Cory, Greg and Emily set out last weekend to conquer Cloudripper's West chute. What we found instead was ALOT of Sierra Snow still present. The route is a loose class III scramble up a very steep gully. What we encountered was an approach littered with recent avalanches and the same gully now covered with a layer of snow over the loose rock footing. The team awoke early and after consideration opted for a fun and much safer climb up nearby Chocolate Peak. We were on the summit in time to watch the sunrise over the Inconsolable Range and back in Bishop for breakfast by 8am. The SoCal crew, Kevin, Cory and Greg, were also able to boast the Sierra summit and then an evening surf sesh in the same Sunday. Good Times!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_0048.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7581823</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7581823</guid>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2019 22:44:26 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Mt. Tom: glissade-o-rama!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;May 4-5, 2019: Six MAA mountain addicts (Vish, Kay, Frederick, David, Kevin, Todd) ascended Mt. Tom via the Elderberry Canyon route and slid on our butts much of the way down. Epic!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Mt%20Tom%202019-2.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Four of us (Frederick, Kevin, David, Todd) were there as a team-practice/pre-climb for our planned ascent of Mt. Rainier via Liberty Ridge later that month (unfortunately we just canceled it yesterday due to nasty weather ... waaaaaaaaa!). Vish joined to further his training/prep for Denali, also in late may. Kay, new to the club was just stoked to climb. A couple friends (Steve &amp;amp; Karyn) skinned up on Saturday to ski, and hung with the gang before tackling the Elderberry headwall.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Mt%20Tom%202019-1.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Saturday afternoon we worked on tuning our crevasse rescue skills. Time well spent in anticipation of Rainier &amp;amp; Denali. The weather deteriorated toward the end of the day, becoming quite windy and cold, however we awoke to bluebird skies on Sunday.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Mt%20Tom%202019-5.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Sunday morning we picked a chute with no visible avy activity to attain the ridge then navigated multiple false summits before reaching the top. Was a gorgeous day! We descended a less-steep snow field further north on the headwall which offered great glissading. After breaking camp we glissaded most of the approach snow field back to its end. I believe we logged well over 3K' of glissading for the day. Woohooooo!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Mt%20Tom%202019-3.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Mt%20Tom%202019-4.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;We all had a great time, and a serious permasmile reaction to the trip!&amp;nbsp; ;)&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7357593</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7357593</guid>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 08 May 2019 02:59:21 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Bluebird Weekend on the West Face of Mt. Shasta</title>
      <description>&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;“North of Casaval Ridge is a beautiful, long gully that begins in HIdden Valley at 9,200 feet and ends nearly 4,000 feet later at the broad snowfield at the base of Misery Hill.” (Selters and Zanger, The Mt. Shasta Book, 3rd ed.)&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;Many believe that the West Face is the prettiest route on Mt. Shasta. I know eight MAA climbers who won’t argue with that. In 2018, this trip was cancelled due to a late-season storm. This year, the weather was perfect and the snowpack was deep.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/IMG_2549.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;We departed Bunny Flat before 9am on Friday, May 3rd. The hike to Horse Camp followed an astonishing 300 foot-wide debris path from a “100-year” avalanche in February. We cached our snow shoes at Horse Camp and traversed to Hidden Valley.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/IMG_2543.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;On Saturday, an alpine start under a new moon created a navigational challenge. We needed to occasionally turn off our headlamps to visually navigate by the faint light of the Milky Way. The icy crust of the West Face (35 to 40 degrees) was ideal for a moderate, non-technical climb with crampons and mountaineering axes. The first clim&lt;/font&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 15px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Arial;"&gt;bers reached the top of the West Face (13,100’) at 8am. After a long break, we trudged up Misery Hill, walked to the fumaroles, and climbed the picturesque summit block.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 15px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Arial;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/IMG_1299.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;The descent featured 3,000’ glissade led by Aaron “buns of steel” Bailey. &amp;nbsp;Icy patches provided plenty of opportunities for self arrest. It was a highlight of the trip. After well-deserved night of sleep, we hiked out on Sunday morning.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p style="line-height: 19px;"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;Team: John Scruggs (EL), Natasha Wyatt, Aaron Bailey, Sissy Petropoulou, Leslie Thomas, Nick Myllenbeck, Phil Lowenthal, Dan Kubaczyk&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 15px;" color="#000000" face="Arial"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7328665</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7328665</guid>
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      <pubDate>Thu, 04 Apr 2019 01:46:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Sometimes dreams come true, just not this time</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Ski Dreams is a couloir tucked in the Sawtooth Range almost next to Matterhorn Peak. In addition there are several options in the vicinity that combined with the long approach (5-6 miles) make for a nice multi-day trip. As the trip planning evolved, a storm popped in the forecast. After monitoring it the expectation was for very light snow, cold temperatures and mild winds. Given prior experience with the local weather it was best to prepare for worse conditions. The plan was on day 1 to hike in, setup camp and scout the area; on day 2 attempt Ski Dreams and scout other objectives (e.g. the Doodad); on day 3 attempt final objective and ski back to trailhead.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/20190322_SkiDreams/1.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;
On the approach it was a beautiful day, only made better due to the awesome snow coverage. Throughout the day winds started to pick up and around midnight snow started to fall. The forecast predicted 1-2" of snow at camp elevation (9.8k ft) but on the morning of day 2 it seemed that 5-6" fell overnight. Strong winds and light snow continued throughout the day.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The group did a short tour on low angle slopes to assess snow stability and confirmed there were at least 6" of fresh, cohesive, and non-reactive snow over the older hard pack. This combined with poor visibility (~100 yards) made the group head to camp after enjoying a couple of laps. Hunkering down is not the most fun thing to do but in this case it was the safe decision. As the storm moved through the winds hit ~40 mph with ~60 mph gusts; enough to knock one over. Thankfully our camp was sheltered and secure.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/20190322_SkiDreams/2.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/20190322_SkiDreams/3.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Overnight the winds and snow died down but the extra energy created dangerous wind slabs. After a good discussion the team didn't feel confident that the conditions were safe for a ski dreams push. We decided in spite of the beautiful blue bird day and fresh pow to pack camp and ski to the car. For some in the group this is the 3rd Ski Dreams attempt. But as they say, the mountain will always be there. On the plus side the ski out was wonderful and with the great coverage it was possible to ski all the way to the car without skinning.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/20190322_SkiDreams/5.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;
As the team headed out, there were a couple of parties heading for the couloir. Later at home we read that one of the parties triggered an avalanche, thankfully without casualties. I think we made the right call.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/20190322_SkiDreams/6.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 2501.39px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7259653</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7259653</guid>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 03 Apr 2019 20:27:06 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>It's No Fluke....It's a Dead Man!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/898866.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[MAA team on the Hotlum Glacier]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No we're not talking morbid tales of demise, but rather snow protection.&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;nbsp;What do you know about how to use pickets, a bollard, or a snow seat to give your team some security in that couloir / glacier / steep face?&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Using specialized techniques and tools, any snow slope is not only climbable, but protectable. There are options beyond individual self-arrest, but it always involves a rope and some form of protection. But you can't just rope up like you would do at the rock crag and call it good. Climbing steep snow safely requires a bit more.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;First, some understanding about protection. Generally, snow does not provide the best options...rock protection is generally the strongest protection available. Ironically, it should be your first choice on a snow climb. That's one reason why it's a good idea to climb on the side of a couloir. Next best option is an ice screw, if you can get it, but that's rare. Next best is probably a natural anchor such as a large, well-rooted tree or a very large boulder, flake, or horn.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;If none of these options are available, then your next best strategies to protect yourself and the team on the climb are the usual tri-fecta of 1. snow protection, combined with 2. belayer positioning, and backed up by 3. an effective team self-arrest.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/snow%20climbing%20cross%20couloir.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[MAA team in the Cross Couloir on Mt. Tallac]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I. Snow Protection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;Pickets are the universal choice here. The standard 1.5 foot T-shaped aluminum snow picket can be hammered in vertically, like a fence post (as a "picket") or buried horizontally in a T-slot (as a "deadman"). You will need a double length (48") sling or an attached cable to extend it for anchoring.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Next best option is to use a mountain axe, also placed as a picket or a deadman, and you'll need to sling it as well by clipping to the head or using a girth hitch or clove hitch around the shaft. Once the axe is solid you can connect it to the picket(s) and begin creating your belay anchor.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Other options include a snow fluke, a bollard, or any other object of some size that can be used as a dead man, like skis, snowshoes, or a pack. To learn more about this paid members can &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/Training-Video-Portal" target="_blank"&gt;view Snow 3 online training&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Snow flukes aren't used much because they only work well in a small range of snow conditions. They are a v-shaped plate of aluminum with a cable that is buried a foot or two in the snow. If weighted, the fluke travels deeper into the snowpack the more pressure it receives. If the snow is too loose it will pull out and if the snow is too dense, it won't move at all. (Perhaps it's best use is as a huge, flat chock placed behind a rock.)&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;A bollard is also not used much but is great to know about and fun to use, if you have the time to dig one. It is a tear-drop shaped trench that is dug in the snow where the rope can be placed so that is in effect "lassoes" a big circular plug of snow. A bollard requires some practice to do well, but does enable you to use it as an anchor, or even rappell from it, using nothing but snow. Not sure if that is encouraging or not!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;II. Belayer Positioning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;This is what's called a "snow seat". It is a way of anchoring oneself while seated in the snow, feet wide and braced, in order to provide more strength to an often dubious snow anchor. Most often it is used at the end of a lead to bring up the team, but it can be used at any time, even in rock climbing, to add to the overall strength of a belay anchor.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;In snow climbing, if the team is belayed directly off the harness using a Munter Hitch, a device, or even a hip wrap, then the snow anchor components are usually equalized and&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;the master point is attached to the belayer's belay loop to function as&lt;/font&gt; a backup to the snow seat.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;In this way belaying a team on the snow is often different than rock climbing: the belayer's position is considered the primary strength of the anchor with the various snow anchors components factored in as additional strength, and the team is belayed from the harness instead of from the master point of the anchor.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/001.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[Team simul-climbing the Hotlum Left Ice Gully on Mt. Shasta]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;III. Team Self-Arrest&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Most of the time snow climbs are done using a technique called a running belay or "simul-climbing". This is a technique where the entire team is spread out on the rope and all moving at the same time. The leader places protection at regular intervals and the last person on the team removes it, taking care to keep a few pieces attached to the rope at all times.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;If any member of the team falls everyone executes a self-arrest in response. This is the first line defense against injury. Secondly, the rope will come tight on the protection and that will add a level of security. But if protection fails, the team still has self-arrest as their primary risk management strategy. So as the first &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the last resort, it must be done well!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Learn More&lt;/strong&gt; - all of these skills and techniques are taught in our &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/climbing-training-mountain-ascent-association" target="_blank"&gt;Snow 3 and Snow 4 training courses being held in April and May&lt;/a&gt;. You can also learn more by watching the online video training and we have some applicable seminars on our &lt;a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBF2e5RW8UUfFz0kvB41fYw" title="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBF2e5RW8UUfFz0kvB41fYw" target="_blank"&gt;YouTube Channel&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_0, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_2" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Happy climbing!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7259186</link>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2019 21:37:55 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Matterhorn Peak East Couloir</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/fullsizeoutput_8d7.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="604" height="403" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;em style=""&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[A portion of our MAA climbing team happy on the summit of Matterhorn Peak]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;By Doug Harris&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;After a winter in which Every. &amp;nbsp;Single. Weekend. Seemed to bring another storm I was surprised to see clear skies and no wind in the forecast for our ascent of Matterhorn Peak March 15-17. &amp;nbsp;Our seven-member team met at the end of Twin Lakes Road in Bridgeport at 9am, went over packs, distributed some group gear and made our way to Horse Creek Trail shortly after 10.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;God bless skiers and the boot-pack they provide. &amp;nbsp;Right out of the gate the Horse Creek Trails hits you with an 800 vertical foot ascent and the prospect of going up that in unconsolidated snow was not something anyone had been looking forward to. &amp;nbsp;However, the skiers got there before us and we were more than happy to use the steps they had kicked.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/fullsizeoutput_8c2.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Bret glad that so many skiiers have been to Matterhorn Peak lately]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Temperatures were warm during the day; we snowshoed up to 10,200 feet picked a location for camp, dug out tent sites and set up a cooking spot in a grove of trees. &amp;nbsp;While the day had been borderline hot and Mountain Forecast was calling for nice temps at night as soon as the sun dipped behind the ridgeline it got surprisingly cold. &amp;nbsp;Nathan packed a few extra pounds of gear and was wandering around camp in a full down suit complete with down booties and seemed utterly unperturbed by the cold. While I can’t speak for others I, at least, was jealous.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Of the seven members who camped that night two were feeling ill and opted not to continue, a third volunteered to stay behind and keep an eye on them (thanks Leslie!). &amp;nbsp;Nathan, Aaron, Brett and myself were out of camp by 7:00 the next day, to the top of the east couloir by 10:00 (give or take) and on the summit by 10:30. Blanketed in snow from all those storms the view from the top looking south along the Matterhorn-Whorl ridgeline toward Yosemite was jaw dropping.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/20190316_103730.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Looking south toward Whorl Mountain and Yosemite NP]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;The descent took a little longer than planned when we found the Ski Dreams couloir unusable and had to get back to camp via Horse Creek Pass. &amp;nbsp;Walk back to the trailhead was uneventful and everyone reached their car by 11am the next day. Thanks to all our members for a great trip!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7248301</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7248301</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2019 23:00:27 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>MTN 2 Winter Mountaineering Training March 15-16</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Our winter mountaineering training wrapped up with a stellar weekend of rappelling, traveling, and climbing on the Mountaineering Level 2 (MTN 2) Winter Mountaineering Course March 15th - 16th, held at Billy Mack Canyon near Truckee.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Snow levels have been off the charts -- we got a chance to experience it firsthand. We had to dig our way through the wall of snow just to get started.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/IMG_20190315_105417.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;" width="604" height="805"&gt;&amp;nbsp;Travel to basecamp was straightforward and pleasant, and in no time we were digging a snow cave, a quinzhee, setting up tents and a group kitchen area. A heck of a lot of digging.&amp;nbsp;There was so much snow that we found&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;drifts buried inside of drifts.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;span&gt;&amp;nbsp;The snow was somewhere around 10 - 15 feet deep everywhere, with incredible cornices.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20190315_184538.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="604" height="805" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Our kitchen set up was a very nice place to spend the evening together enjoying meals and a mild winter night with about a billion stars.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20190315_190250.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Some of our team slept in tents and quite a few spent their first night in a snow shelter. The next day we trekked out to Babylon Dome and worked on fixed lines and rappelling with a full winter setup (pack, crampons, gloves, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/IMG_20190316_112510.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="604" height="805" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20190316_114802.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="604" height="805" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;In addition to our winter camping and technical skills, we also spent quite a bit of time working on advanced navigation, learning how to shoot a bearing without using the needle and how to move through terrain when we can't sight a bearing to our destination.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The mountaineering series continues with &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/climbing-training-mountain-ascent-association" target="_blank"&gt;MTN 3,&lt;/a&gt; which is "Expedition Mountaineering" -- this is our most physically demanding training with a 24 hour circumnavigaton and technical climb, with a bivouac in the snow. Light and fast is the name of the game here, no basecamps. This is meant to prepare members for the final push to the summit, having the skills, technique and know-how for success.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for a successful and rewarding training!&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7246684</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7246684</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2019 19:27:34 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Ice Climbing Beyond Winter?</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/cody%20wyoming.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Happy news friends, ice climbing is never over! How? Because "ice climbing" includes not just climbing water ice, but also the spring "alpine ice" season, summer glacial ice climbing, and even fall couloir climbing. Yesssss! Amazing and true. :)&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Let's start when it's too cold to rock climb anymore -- with freezing late fall and winter temperatures. As the creeks and cascades harden, water ice climbing season begins, with the pillars, faces and gullies gleaming with hard ice. Lee Vining, June Lake, Ouray, Bozeman, Cody, Canada...we love it. We'll continue kickin' and pickin' steep and vertical ice through the winter using short-shafted "ice tools" with a reverse curve pick and sharp vertically oriented ice climbing crampons, from November to March. This continues while winter snow is falling readying for the "next season" of ice climbing, which is just around the corner.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/North%20Palisade%20Bergschrund.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[MAA team climbing over the bergschrund on an ascent of the famous U-Notch route on North Palisade]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Sometime around April in the Sierra, as the water ice melts away, all that winter snow continues to condense and harden. About the time we no longer need those double boots, steep couloirs in the mountains are hard enough to climb. This is&amp;nbsp;the "alpine ice" season a.k.a. as the time to climb Round Top, Tallac, Baldy, Red Slate, Mendel and the like. Specifically, this is "névé&amp;nbsp;climbing", which is old snow that hasn't yet been around a year. Névé&amp;nbsp;has gone through enough freeze / thaw cycles that it can be climbed with two tools&amp;nbsp;-- either a mountain axe and a ice tool, or two hybrid tools -- and rock pro and snow pro can be used as you simul-climb with your team for thousands of feet.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Training%20Pics/ice%20couloir%20lead%20North%20Peak.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;" width="451" height="600"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Climbing a north facing couloir using two tools and both ice screws and rock pro, this type of ascent allows a climber to use all their training]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;These couloirs and faces provide direct access to the glorious mountain summits. Days are longer and the high peaks are warmer - make sure you get an early start and are back to camp for a late lunch before the rocks and ice start coming down!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Once the&amp;nbsp;névé is hard enough to take an ice screw or very resistant to shoveling, it is classified as "firn" and is a dream to climb, because it takes picks with less effort than water ice and yet is very secure.&amp;nbsp;To climb alpine ice, the technique is a little different that water ice climbing. Typically a climber will keep their tools lower, climbing with them in low dagger, or mid-dagger position. This allows a climber to quickly and confidently crawl up steep snow slopes without having to use an overhead swing.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;In addition to learning this, MAA provides comprehensive training how to use ropes, team self arrest, place protection and be a member of a team for this type of "ice climbing" in our &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/climbing-training-mountain-ascent-association" target="_blank"&gt;Snow 3 and Snow 4 classes.&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Which ice axe to choose? How do you know which is the best one for your chosen application?&amp;nbsp;Outdoor Gear Lab is a trusted source on all kinds of gear;&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/snow-sports/best-ice-axe/buying-advice"&gt;here is an excellent review&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;of all piolets classified as "ice axes" - which is all straight shaft or slightly bent shafts models, which are good for everything from mountaineering to steep hard snow and even low grade water ice.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/mont%20blanc%20view.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 10px; display: block;" width="604" height="403"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[MAA expedition team on the Tres Montes route in the Mont Blanc Massif]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;While alpine ice season is underway, the biggest mountains in North America are coming into shape. Sometime around May, and continuing into the fall, ice climbing now expands to include the glaciers and high mountains, full of glacial ice, tumbling seracs, and snow and ice in all it's wonderful forms. The technique we practiced in the winter and spring can be applied to the steep, hard slopes of many glaciated mountain faces and aretes. Think Mt. Rainier, Mt. Shasta, Mt. Baker, and Alaska.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;And it's not over yet...right about the time the crevasses are too numerous to negotiate, usually around September, we can return to the high peaks for a few last ice climbs until November. Nothing like a Halloween climb up the North Couloir of North Peak. The firn that has been hardening for many months is now dense, dirty, rock-hard snow. It will take ice screws and climbs almost like water ice, with much less shattering. We can touch the summits once more before winter closes in and the cycle begins all over again.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/North%20Peak%20Sunrise.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="302" height="505" style="display: block; margin: 10px;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em style=""&gt;[MAA members approach North Peak, North Couloir route on an early fall morning]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;And if this wasn't great enough, if you can travel north (or south) far enough, or high enough, in any season, you can always find "ice climbing". All types. Guaranteed. You just need to know where to go.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;So you see, ice climbing season is never truly over. Keep your tools sharp!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7246344</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7246344</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 12 Mar 2019 14:56:19 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Climbing Mt. Shasta</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Mt.%20Shasta%20HB%20Ridge.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[Mt. Shasta's beautiful and elusive north side, showcasing the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge route, with the Hotlum Glacier on the left and the Bolam Glacier on the right, with the Whitney Glacier far right.]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's an icon of northern California and one of the most sought after summits along the west coast, 14,180' Mt. Shasta.&lt;/strong&gt; This prominent volcano offers excellent opportunities for climbing, skiing, and hiking on it's glacier clad slopes and one of the best summits anywhere - a small castle of rock with a sheer drop on all sides.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Shasta%20summit%20glory.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;" width="604" height="403"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[MAA summiteer elated with the 100 mile view in every direction.]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Mountain Ascent Association has been climbing Shasta since the very beginning in 2009, and to date we have logged close to 40 trips there, climbing all the major routes.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;I'm often asked about Mt. Shasta, when to climb it, where the best routes are and how to prepare for success. These are topics we discuss in our &lt;a href="https://youtu.be/RowEvfO1CPA" target="_blank"&gt;Mt. Shasta Seminar&lt;/a&gt; which you can view on our YouTube Channel &lt;a href="https://youtu.be/RowEvfO1CPA" target="_blank"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;However, some highlights would be appropriate, let's do them in a FAQ format.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;Q: Should I climb Avalanche Gulch?&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;If you've never been to Shasta before Avalanche Gulch is a good route to ascend because it's one of the easiest routes. However, it is crowded and prone to ice and rock fall, plus the perils of the mistakes of ill-experienced climbers. For those reasons I recommend the West Face or Hotlum Bolam Ridge routes instead. They require a bit more travel and have more routefinding components, but are far less crowded, more scenic, and ultimately more safe.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/11.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[Typical weekend scene at basecamp for Avalanche Gulch]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: What training should I get in order to climb Shasta?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;You absolutely need to know how to climb steep snow and perform an effective self arrest. In MAA, these skills are addressed in SNOW 1 and SNOW 2. You also need to know how to travel, camp and navigate in snow. These skills are addressed in MTN 2 training course. You do not need to have this training from MAA, you just need to be have the skills to climb the steep and slippery snow slopes confidently and safely.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Most importantly, you need to be fit enough to climb a minimum of 4,000' per day with a pack at altitude. You should not expect to succeed by just jumping off the couch and heading up there. Put in at least two months of cardio training prior and you'll be much happier and successful on your ascent.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/fitness%20-%20mountain%20runner.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[Credits: Patituci Photo]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: I want to climb Casaval Ridge. What's the best way to prepare for it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Casaval Ridge is a scenic route and is best done in the spring - April is usually the best month. However, since it is climbed on the coattails of winter, and because it is a prominent southern facing ridge, you should expect and be prepared for monster winds. They've been known to blow camps right off the ridge. Over the last 7 years about half of our teams have been unable to summit due to high winds and low visibility, so take a healthy dose of patience and caution. If you are really committed to summiting via Casaval it's best to plan at least 4 days. Study the route carefully ahead of time, get a very early start - like 2 am - and climb fast. Most parties do not rope up for the Catwalk.&lt;/font&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Mt.%20Shasta%20Casaval%20Ridge.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; &lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[The majority of the Casaval Ridge route. The Catwalk is the last right trending rock band before gaining the ridgeline of Misery Hill]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;&lt;strong style=""&gt;Q: How often does MAA climb Shasta?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Mountain Ascent Association climbs Shasta every year, between 4 and 8 times, during the months from April - July. &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/rock-climbing-ice-climbing-mountaineering-events-mountain-ascent-association" target="_blank"&gt;This year&lt;/a&gt; we have 6 events so far and a few more in the planning stages. We also conduct &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/event-3057116" target="_blank"&gt;glacier climbing and crevasse rescue courses&lt;/a&gt; there for Apex members.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Our favorite routes are any Hotlum route (HB ridge, HB glacier, and left and right ice gullies) and the ridge routes (Casaval, Sargents, and Green Butte), with West Face as a great alternative to Avalanche Gulch. We'll also be on the Wintun glacier this year. The Whitney Glacier is another route we've climbed in the past that is an adventurous and worthwhile route.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Mt.%20Shasta%20Hotlum%20Glacier.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[The upper icefall zone on the Hotlum Glacier in late season]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;&lt;strong style=""&gt;Q: What are the main hazards of climbing Shasta?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Unquestionably the biggest hazard is wind. It can be unpredictable and not on the forecast. It also varies in intensity depending upon which side of the mountain you are climbing. The worst culprits seems to be the windward southwest side and the colder, glaciated northwestern side. 50+ mph winds have often been present on the Hotlum Glacier and Casaval Ridge and on the summit 100 mph winds happen often, especially in the winter and spring.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Winds will not only make the climb colder and miserable, they may create a whiteout where navigation is difficult or impossible. Be prepared to descend and know your descent route well, even to the point of having a compass bearing handy. The other hazards of the mountain are other climbers, falling in or glissading into a crevasse, glissading with crampons on (never do this) and falling ice and rock.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Winter%20climbing%20Round%20Top.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em style=""&gt;[MAA climber dealing with high winds on a typical winter climb on Round Top]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;&lt;strong style=""&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;Q: What are the best things I should expect from my climb?&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;There's a lot to expect! Mt. Shasta is a beautiful, accessible, high mountain with a variety of routes and a lot of room for everyone. The weather is usually great and the views are stunning. It's easy to get there on the interstate, and usually can be climbed in a weekend.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;Shasta is a great mountain climb in its own right, but it also offers the perfect training ground for higher and more difficult objectives. It's the perfect "mountain gym". Shasta is just as accessible as Mt. Hood or Mt. Baker, but it is hundreds of feet higher at 14,180. Rainier is the only Cascades volcano that's higher, at 14,410'. However, unlike Rainier, Mt. Shasta is less serious and less massive, with only a few glaciers that are big enough to practice with, but not so big they are a major hazard. So it's high enough to be useful for a "high altitude" experience but small enough that is doesn't require a major expedition effort to climb.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Stuart%20ice%20red%20climber.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em style=""&gt;[MAA climber Dustin in the icefall on Mt. Stuart]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;&lt;strong style=""&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;Q: Can I climb Shasta on my own?&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_4" style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;Yes...if you have the skills, fitness, and a partner. Don't head up there without all of those. Study the route ahead of time, monitor the weather, don't skimp on clothing and equipment, and be ready to turn back if things aren't right. But do go for it - you will be rewarded. Climbing Mt. Shasta is a stellar experience.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif, WaWebKitSavedSpanIndex_4"&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 16px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/ShastaSummit.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[One of our teams happy on the summit after climbing the HB ridge]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <pubDate>Thu, 07 Mar 2019 03:00:05 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Mt. Baldy: Schitzo Alley!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;This past weekend we had planned to do a winter ascent of Mt. San Gorgonio here in SoCal, but due to bad weather opted for a day climb of Mt. Baldy via the longest chute in the bowl - Schitzo Alley. Kevin, James, and I (toad) met at Manker Flats around 7am and on Sunday, March 3rd. All of SoCal was socked in with clouds except the mountains. Gorgeous day up high! We were stoked to be there! After a quick ascent to the ski hut where we geared up, we got to climbing an avalanche scar (avy from previous weekend) on our way up the bowl. A ton of ice-gravel coming down the bowl, ice pin-wheels, and some decent sized rocks. Was a very headzup climb. Once at the base of the rocks we traversed east and into the Schitzo Alley chute. Lots coming down the chute including some soft snow, so we hugged the sides for safety. Near the top of the chute we found the source of constantly-raining-ice. The storm that came through the previous day had a very high freezing level (around 9300') so all the rocks and trees were fully coated in ice that was now peeling off in response to sunny-day rising temps. Made for some great pictures though. We topped out around 11am, tagged the summit, and skeedaddled to escape the high winds (blowing 35+mph). After stopping for grins at a great viewpoint on the ridge, we continued down into the now rising cloud layer and back to the TH by 2pm. Was a shweeeet day!!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Baldy%201.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Our route up Baldy Bowl. Fun line!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Baldy%202a.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Getting started up the bowl.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Baldy%203a.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Kevin making fresh tracks.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Baldy%204.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Nearing the top of the chute. Ice coating everything up here.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Baldy%205.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Topping out. Now just 1/4 stroll to the summit.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Baldy%206.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Summit shot. Permasmile. Wooohoooooooooo!&lt;/p&gt;

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      <pubDate>Wed, 06 Mar 2019 20:34:29 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Cody, WY 2019 Expedition</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;MAA members just completed an epic week of ice climbing in the frozen northern region of Cody, Wyoming -- and have confirmed this as the amazing multi-pitch ice climbing playground it's famous for.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The team completed multiple, long routes in the WI4 - WI6 range, notably "Broken Hearts" and "High on Bolder". Temps were brutal, bottoming out at -11 and below zero on most days! The team stayed in a rural cabin which MAA has secured for next year. 2020 dates for the Cody expedition are Feb. 27th - March 4th. Hope you can join us!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Photo%20from%20Darren%20Shutt%20(5).jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Photo%20from%20Darren%20Shutt%20(5).jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Photo%20from%20Darren%20Shutt%20(6).jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Photo%20from%20Darren%20Shutt%20(4).jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/cody%20team.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px;"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7203016</link>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 06 Mar 2019 19:36:12 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Winter Rock Climbing Destinations</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Let's admit it, sometimes winter can be a bit dreary, and we find ourselves dreaming of climbing on warm rock and enjoying some double digit temps. So where can you get "some rad and some trad" while the mountains are still in the icy grip of old man winter? To the deserts and the eastern, dry sides of the Cascades and Sierra ranges of course...&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Joshua%20Tree%20sunset.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Joshua Tree&lt;/strong&gt; - This National Park located just a few hours east of the Los Angeles sprawl is renowned for great weather in the "off-season" - in fact November through March is the best time to go there. J-Tree has thousands of routes on rock with incredible friction and some very unique desert scenery. It's busy on weekends so try to go mid-week if possible. There are so many areas to climb there, but some of the best are in Real Hidden Valley, off the Lost Horse Road, and at Hemingway for example. MAA sponsors trips to JT a couple times a year, mostly in the fall. Go check it out!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Red%20Rocks%20Nevada.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red Rock Canyon, NV&lt;/strong&gt; - This area just outside and in a completely different world than nearby Las Vegas is famous for multi-pitch climbing on amazing sandstone. You can also find some cragging areas and even great hiking here. Finding camping is relatively easy and there is lots of room for everyone with dozens of canyons and hundreds of routes.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Smith%20Rock%20SP.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smith Rock State Park, OR&lt;/strong&gt; - Just outside of Bend, "the birthplace of sport climbing" was created from the enthusiasm of the&amp;nbsp; climbing community and remains true to that heritage. With accessible camping (with a bathroom and showers!), an excellent trail network, generally excellent weather, this place is a mecca. Thousands of sport routes and a handful of trad routes in the widest variety are available all over these unique formations.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Alabama%20Hills.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="margin: 8px; display: block;"&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eastern Sierra Crags&lt;/strong&gt; - A number of locations here are significantly more tolerable during winter than summer: most notably Alabama Hills in Lone Pine, the Buttermilks, and Owens River Gorge near Bishop.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mountain Ascent&lt;/strong&gt; sponsors climbing events at many of these locations every year. In 2019 we'll be at Smith Rock in May and Red Rocks in November, so far. J-Tree and other areas will certainly pop up as we get closer to summer.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;What are some of your favorite areas to rock climb during the winter? If you have suggestions to add to this list please contact MAA at &lt;a href="mailto:connect@mountainascent.org"&gt;connect@mountainascent.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href="https://www.mountainproject.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Mountain Project&lt;/a&gt; for more information and other ideas!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <pubDate>Tue, 26 Feb 2019 21:27:22 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Winter "Fast and Light" - Does It Exist?</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Yes, Virginia, winter "fast and light" is real - and in fact has made many appearances, even on typically "heavy and slow" expeditions!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;How can you be light and fast in winter without cutting the margin of safety razor-thin? And just because you are light, does that mean you are automatically going to be fast? How about these tips from the front line.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/TM%20flying%20into%20Denali.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Alaskan scenery captured out the window while flying into Denali - Todd Martin]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;ol&gt;
  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get fit.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;span&gt;Winter climbing is demanding - heavier loads, deep snow, cold temps...it can be tough. Be prepared for it by following a fitness training program that includes cardiovascular endurance and some strength training. This will allow you to go further and last longer. &lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/join" target="_blank"&gt;Apex and Peak members&lt;/a&gt; both have climbing specific training programs included in their membership, take advantage of it!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Go without a 4-season tent.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/strong&gt;Opt for a snow shelter or a floorless shelter instead. With a few hours and a some motivated folks armed with shovels, you can create an sweet basecamp. Floorless shelters such as the BD MegaMid and BetaMid, or the Sierra Designs Mountain Guide Tarp, when combined with digging down in the snow, can provide a roomy and even bombproof basecamp. Or you can dig into the leeward side of a snow drift for your very own snow cave!&amp;nbsp;Or create a quinzhee. Pile the snow, stomp and pack it, then dig it out in this same manner. Using any of these alternative shelter options can save you up to 10 lbs.&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/snow%20cave%20mike%20clelland.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="display: block;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[Illustration by Mike Clelland]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice Multi-Use and Limit Duplication.&lt;/strong&gt; Sleep with a&lt;span&gt;ll your clothing on and you can bring a lighter weight sleeping bag. Bring only one torso length closed cell foam pad and use the rope and your backpack under you as additional insulation from the cold. Maybe this will in turn allow you to bring a smaller and lighter backpack. Only a few items should be duplicated: socks, gloves and headlamps in particular, and see if you can get by with only two pair rather than three. Winter is not the time to bring the coffee press and camp chair.&amp;nbsp;This can save you a pound or two.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cut down on protection.&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;nbsp;Often we bring more than we need. Bring a smaller diameter (&amp;lt;9 mm), shorter rope, and only the minimum of protection. Or opt for a route that is non technical, such as a ridge climb, so you don't have to haul this gear. It can save you up to 10 lbs.&amp;nbsp;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Copy%20of%20The%20Sisters%20in%20winter.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="display: block; margin: 8px;" width="604" height="453"&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[MAA teams on a winter ascent of The Sisters near Carson Pass]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cut down on food, and make careful selections.&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, it's scary to contemplate running out of food, especially in winter. And you need calories to stay warm, so it's a safety thing too. But this is an area where folks routinely bring more than they need, and even return from the trip not having eaten it all. If this is the case, you probably brought too much. Consider bringing the most calorie-dense items you can, with raw BTUs as the criteria - this is not the time to be on a diet. (Bacon is one of the best for calories to weight ratio, for example!) Also, remove packaging and only bring what you are actually going to eat. Plan it out for each day. Unless you'll be further than a day's journey from the trail head, there is no need to bring "extra food", just in case. The average person can go&amp;nbsp;an entire day or more without eating if necessary, you are going to make it. With careful planning and bringing no more than 3.5 lbs of food a day this, could save you many pounds of unnecessary weight.&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't carry so much water.&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;nbsp;It's important to stay hydrated but take care of that while you are in camp or by filling up at streams, if possible. You probably only need to actually carry a liter or two at a time. Each filled Nalgene (quart) weighs over 2 lbs. And when you do drink liquids, opt for hot drinks!&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;

&lt;p&gt;All these concepts are taught on the&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/event-3056879" target="_blank"&gt;MTN 2 training course&lt;/a&gt; offered by MAA in winter time. Hope this helps keep the loads lighter and the smiles bigger!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7189334</link>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 22 Feb 2019 00:46:44 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Ouray Ice Climbing!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;We had a team of 14 in beautiful Ouray Colorado in late January through early February. We all climbed together in the South Park area of the canyon on Tuesday (1/29) and had a blast getting reacquainted to our ice tools. Wednesday was another gorgeous day in the park with half of our group back in the School House area and the other half managed to grab most of the climbs in the Pic Of The Vic area. We had mostly to ourselves the entire day which is rare since it's probably the most popular spot in the park. To top it off, Vish made a dash into town around noon and returned with fresh hot pizza! Epic!!! It doesn't get much better than chilling with friends, climbing ice and chowing on hot pizza at the crag. The following three days were a mixture of teams top-roping &amp;amp; practicing lead climbing in the park, multi-pitch climbing up Camp Bird Road, and back-country multi-pitch climbing at Dexter Slabs and in the Silverton/Eureka area. To top it off, we had a potluck dinner Friday night where everyone provided a favorite dish. What a feast! Great trip! I think everyone had a serious case of permasmile on the way home. :)&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Ouray%202019-2.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Erik just after pulling over that overhanging ice!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Ouray%202019-1.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;MAA rocking Pic Of The Vic area ... after pizza delivery!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Ouray%202019-3.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Paul above doing his ninja swing (look closely at his ice tool)&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Ouray%202019-4.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Paul, Steve, Todd after climbing Horsetail Falls in background&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Ouray%202019-5.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;See, I told ya, PERMASMILE!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7177994</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7177994</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 19 Feb 2019 20:04:34 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Avalanche Basics - Know Before You Go!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/avalanche.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="display: block; margin: 8px;"&gt;With the Sierra Nevada on overload with 136% of snowpack, avalanche safety has received a renewed emphasis. &lt;a href="https://www.sierraavalanchecenter.org/" target="_blank"&gt;The Sierra Avalanche Center&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href="https://www.shastaavalanche.org/" target="_blank"&gt;Mount Shasta Avalanche Center&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href="https://www.esavalanche.org/" target="_blank"&gt;Eastern Sierra Avalanche Center&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;are your go-to sources for professional and reliable avalanche information, and should always be consulted before heading out in the winter backcountry.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;This last weekend avalanche danger was HIGH throughout most of the state and continued to be that way for several days as more and more snow just kept coming. Why was it so unusually high and for so long? Primarily it was these factors: 1. weather, 2. terrain and 3. snowpack - which are all a part of a series of quick assessments you can use to determine if it's safe to venture onto steep slopes. Here's a few examples from the last week:&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weather Red Flags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;- It was snowing more than an inch an hour makes for unstable conditions, as the snow piles up faster than it has time to bond&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;- Strong winds create "wind slab" which make the classic and deadly slab avalanche conditions more likely&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;- Cold temperatures and little sun keep the snowpack loose and unbonded&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terrain Red Flags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;- Slopes in the zone of between 30 - 45 degrees were sliding, like they always do when triggered.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;- Terrain with a collection zone or ridge, shaped like a bowl or a chute, especially with runout zones, and broken or non-existent trees are places where avalanches occur over and over. Stay away from these places.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/20160305_093556.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="display: block;" width="604" height="340"&gt;[&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;MAA team on a winter ascent of Mt. McAdie, a neighbor to Whitney. We avoided avalanche terrain by staying on ridgelines and steep rock.]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Snowpack Red Flags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;- The presence of a large and unstable wind slab is always a cause for concern, and cornices grew to an enormous size.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;- The presence of many storm layers create a complicated snowpack with many potential failure points - best to dig a pit and conduct some tests on your own as well!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;These are just some of the factors you should consider when heading out into avalanche terrain, but not all. There are many more things to know and assess to create a complete picture for the backcountry. So how to stay the safest? Follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;ol&gt;
  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get educated&lt;/strong&gt; - take an avalanche course. We recommend Sierra Mountain Guides in Bishop or Alpine Skills International in Truckee.&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get the report&lt;/strong&gt; - check the appropriate agency before heading out.&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get away&lt;/strong&gt; - if your goal is climbing it is usually possible to stay above and away from avalanche zones, or in terrain where it is too steep or too low angle for them to occur, such as on ridgelines, steep cliffs, or trees. Avoidance is the key.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Have fun and stay safe out there!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Copy%20of%20The%20Sisters%20in%20winter.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="display: block; margin: 8px;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;font style="font-size: 12px;"&gt;[MAA team on a winter ascent of The Sisters near Carson Pass]&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7173492</link>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 13 Feb 2019 16:14:44 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Winter Climbing Tips</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Winter%20climbing%20Round%20Top.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h1&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;Winter mountaineering - it's cold and crazy out there sometimes!&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;Over the course of many years camping and climbing in the "off-season" I've picked up a few tips from friends. The following tips are guaranteed to improve your outlook and make the difference between suffering and succeeding when the temps drop and the snow flies.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;ol&gt;
  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;Always use an insulating pad for sitting or laying on snow.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;span style=""&gt;T&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;his rule may seem obvious but actually it easy to ignore...until your butt becomes a block of ice. Take two pads out there with you, one inflatable and one non-inflatable. Use your non inflatable (e.g. "ensolite") pad under your body while sitting down to eat, cook, and of course while sleeping.&lt;/span&gt; &lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;Double or triple fold your pad for even better isolation from the cold.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;While sleeping use the inflatable pad over the ensolite pad. Full length pads are better!&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;Sleeping bag = clothes dryer.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;span style=""&gt;Yes, that's right, your gloves, socks, insoles, and even some layers can all be reclaimed from the icy grip of winter if you bring them in the sleeping bag with you. They may not be bone dry in the morning in some cases, but that's better than throwing them in a corner of the tent to find they are frozen and useless in the morning.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;&lt;em&gt;Everything&lt;/em&gt; is insulation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;. Before nodding off for the night arrange your gear and all the clothes you are not sleeping in anywhere underneath your sleeping bag and around you so that they benefit from your body heat, and you benefit from further isolation from the snow. Your empty backpack, gaiters, rope, and even boots should all be inside your shelter with you, either underneath you or touching you. Leaving your back pack and especially boots outside is a costly mistake - there's no reason they can't be kept drier - and keeping you drier - by being inside your shelter.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;Hot liquids are amazing.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;span style=""&gt;It's nearly impossible to have too much hot cocoa, coffee, tea, and instant soup out there. The packets take up virtually no space, and not only will you be warmer you will also stay hydrated. Will you have to get up to pee in the middle of the night? Probably, but it will give you a quiet moment to enjoy the incredible winter night sky.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;Water freezes from the top down.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;span style=""&gt;So put your w&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;ater bottle with the threads down in an insulating parka and you'll never have to fight a frozen waterbottle lid again. Even better, fill it with hot water and put it in your sleeping bag near your feet or belly, and you'll be warmer for most of the night.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;Dry socks and dry gloves are worth the effort.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;span style=""&gt;Bring multiple pairs, keep them dry in a ziploc bag and always have at least one dry pair in reserve. Never drop your gloves in the snow. Instead, while not on your hands, gloves should always be kept warm and drying out in your jacket pockets, not left out to freeze somewhere. Keep socks that are drying out in your sleeping bag. Always sleep with a fresh(er), dri(er) pair of socks.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong style="font-family: Verdana;"&gt;The right gear makes a difference.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;span style=""&gt;&amp;nbsp;It's all about the details. Always get jackets and layers with long sleeves and helmet-compatible hoods. Always have a minimum of three layers available for your lower body and four layers for your upper body. Always bring a beanie, a buff / balaclava, and gaiters. Waterproof your shell layers, gloves and boots every season. Use a compression stuffsack for you sleeping bag and other bulky items. Have multiple headlamps each with their own fresh batteries. Always bring an emergency blanket and/or bivy sack.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/General%20pics/Night%20Shot%20Tent.jpeg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/font&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;font face="Verdana" style="font-size: 18px;"&gt;MAA members use these skills quite often, whether its winter climbing or July in the Andes at 20,000 feet. We offer our&amp;nbsp;&lt;a href="https://mountainascent.org/climbing-training-mountain-ascent-association" target="_blank"&gt;MTN 2: Winter Mountaineering&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;training courses from December through March. Stay dry, warm and happy out there!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

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&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 2296.6px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;

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      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7162566</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7162566</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 12 Feb 2019 18:45:28 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Thor Ice in the Whitney Zone</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20190111_155052410.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20190113_071958588.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/DSC00018%20(1).JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/DSC00112%20(1).JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;MAA members spent four days climbing ice on Thor Falls and enjoying winter zen in early January. We walked from the valley all the way up the road, snowshoed / skiied up DEEP unconsolidated snow up the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek to establish a sweet basecamp at Lower Boy Scout Lake. In between great weather and storms, we got a few days of climbing on the incredibly beautiful ice below Thor Peak at around 10,700. We had acres of ice all to ourselves and climbed until we couldn't swing any more.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;There's something very cool about this area - the aesthetic of climbing smooth, perfect ice nearly at the foot of Whitney and the winter scenery are unmatched. You just have to put in the miles to get there and you will be rewarded. Thor Falls forms earlier and stays longer than any other ice crag in CA.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;We learned early season snow on the approach route is very tough, especially when you have around 5,000' to climb to basecamp with 60 lb winter mountaineering packs -- we will offer this event every year, but probably in March when the approach is more consolidated.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Great trip, and a great team put in a lot of effort in sometimes difficult conditions to make this happen!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div id="sbi_camera_button" style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 1691.46px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7160751</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7160751</guid>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 25 Jan 2019 20:09:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Round Top West Ridge</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;A great group closed out 2018 with a climb of Round Top via the West Ridge on Saturday, December 29th.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;A beautiful day turned to high winds as we ascended the base of the ridge. We took a break behind some rocks just below the summit, preparing ourselves for a quick dash to the summit in blowing wind. But then it died!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;We had great views, some snacks on the summit, took some photos, and headed back. The trip was about six hours car-to-car.&amp;nbsp;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/DSC01646.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/DSC01661.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/DSC01667.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/DSC01670.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7129561</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7129561</guid>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 25 Jan 2019 19:59:08 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>June Lake Ice Cragging</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Saturday,January 19th was very busy at June Lake! With avalanche danger running high in Lee Vining Canyon and at Horsetail Falls, every ice climber arrived at Roadside. Lucky for our team, we had all previously agreed to meet in Lee Vining at 6:30am - figuring there would be lots of climbers on the 3-day weekend. We were on the ice by 7:15 with two ropes. As more people arrived, including three guided groups, more ropes went up and most of us shared. We also tried to keep the climbers parallel with each other to avoid excessive ice fall. Also in our favor, the right side had some thin but climbable mixed ice, allowing for some great training! Hopefully we will get more ice and cold temps soon!&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/DSC01684.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt; &amp;nbsp; &lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/DSC01682_exposure.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7129539</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7129539</guid>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 20 Jan 2019 06:34:02 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Castle Peak Climb</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;8 MAA members joined me at Donner Pass this past Saturday to climb Castle Peak via the West Ridge.&amp;nbsp; What we had penciled out was a nice stroll up to Castle Pass, turn right on the ridge and then ascend the 1,100 feet along the ridge to the East Peak with beautiful views of the region.&amp;nbsp; What we got was low-lying clouds with poor visibility, intermittent drizzle and unconsolidated snow shortly after a blizzard had passed through.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;But plans are plans and you can’t change the weather so we left the Sno Park at 8:30am and were up to Castle Pass by 10 despite soft, wet snow along the entire trail.&amp;nbsp; Deep post holing with snow shoes on was intermittently enjoyed by one and all.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Before we left the parking lot we knew the avalanche forecast was not encouraging.&amp;nbsp; By sticking to low-angled slopes we planned to mitigate any danger but one section of the route ascends a 35 degree slope.&amp;nbsp; Sadly this section is more or less unavoidable.&amp;nbsp; I did have the faint hope that wind would have scoured this of excess snow accumulation rendering it climbable but visibility remained poor and the snow stayed deep.&amp;nbsp; Given that the avalanche forecast contained words like “considerable” and “historic” we felt discretion was the better part of valor and turned back, walking to the Peter Grubb Hut (neat hut, sad story see here: &lt;a href="http://clairtappaanlodge.com/peter-grubb-hut-history"&gt;http://clairtappaanlodge.com/peter-grubb-hut-history&lt;/a&gt;) and stopped for a quick snack before climbing back to the ridge and then descending to our cars.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Everyone on the team did incredibly well and remained in good spirits despite less than ideal conditions and changes in plans.&amp;nbsp; Special thanks to Sadie and Bryce for all the help!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/IMG_2453.JPG" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7011031</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/7011031</guid>
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      <pubDate>Mon, 31 Dec 2018 23:52:18 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Bozeman Ice Climbing</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;On our second expedition to this area, our team of eight MAA ice climbers assembled in Bozeman, Montana between Dec. 7 &amp;amp; 14 to climb in Hyalite Canyon for the week. We had a great time climbing single &amp;amp; multi-pitch ice up to WI5 and some mixed routes as well. Here's a few highlight pics.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Bozeman-3%202018.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Bozeman-1%202018.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Bozeman-4%202018.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Bozeman-5%202018.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Event%20Pics/Bozeman-6%202018.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The event was organized and led by Paul Shaughnessy and Todd Martin. We'll be returning to this event every year, it's such a great next step for those who have put in some time in Ouray and Lee Vining and are ready for backcountry ice. Hope to see you out with us next year!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 3852.35px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6980845</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6980845</guid>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 30 Dec 2018 18:30:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Lassen Peak</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Overcoming 60 mph winds on the summit ridge, three members made the summit of Lassen Peak on Sunday, December 30th.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Our approach was from the&amp;nbsp;south entrance to Lassen Volcanic National Park.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;It was 6 miles from the entrance, to our camp just above Lake Helen.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6984935</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6984935</guid>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 07 Nov 2018 02:26:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Sierra Buttes MTN 1</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;On Nov. 2-3 our 8 person MAA team on a MTN 1 course successfully climbed&amp;nbsp; an unnamed rock gully on the north side, sumitting a little after noon. Camp was made at Young America Lake, completing a circuit with 3700' total elevation. Congrats team!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20181103_131525189.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG_20181103_125617681.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div id="sbi_camera_button" style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 567px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6892286</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6892286</guid>
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      <pubDate>Tue, 30 Oct 2018 21:46:16 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Devils Peak Ascent</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/devils%20peak%20ridge%20walk.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" style="display: block; margin: 10px;" width="302" height="227"&gt;Devil’s Peak is a fin-shaped outcropping of volcanic rock perched atop a glacier-polished granite plateau near Donner Summit. At 7702’, it stands about 800’ higher than the surrounding lakes. We gathered late in the day at the Devil’s Outlook warming hut at Royal Gorge. After a leisurely hike to Long Lake, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset and settled in for the night. The Red Sox beat the Dodgers 9-6.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;We departed at dawn for the short approach to the North side of Devil’s Peak. As a group, we decided to tackle the “North Chute” which Summitpost rates class 3-4 and describes as the “most interesting” route. We quickly scrambled up the chute and proceeded to a picturesque knife-edge ridge. For a little extra fun and training, Fletcher set up a fixed line to protect the crux below the true summit. After lunch, photos and Toblerone at the summit, we started our descent. We rappelled a short wall (more fun!), descended the chute and headed back to camp. We were back at the warming hut by 3 pm.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Thank you Fletcher and John for leading this event!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 198px !important; left: 272px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6881586</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6881586</guid>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 19 Oct 2018 17:31:07 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Himalayan Expedition Recap</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Our Nepal team has been in the Khumbu region of Nepal for nearly three weeks now. They've summitted Imja Tse 20,305 and yesterday we heard that all of the Ama Dablam team summitted as well! Another altitude record at 22,349! Congrats everyone! Here is a collection of the best photos from the expedition so far...&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/Photo%20from%20Darren%20Shutt.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/crevasse%20layers.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/tengboche%20monastery.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/ascending%20Island%20peak.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/island%20peak%20summit.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/girls%20exp.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 3043.25px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;
  &lt;br&gt;
&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6812949</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6812949</guid>
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      <pubDate>Thu, 18 Oct 2018 00:07:31 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Nepal expedition summits Imja Tse</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;In our first ever MAA expedition in Nepal, our team of 8 successfully summited Imja Tse ("Island Peak") on October 10th. Congrats team! This mountain at 20,305 sets a new high altitude record for our organization. Island Peak has a breathtaking view of Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Everest. The climb culminated nearly a year of planning, training, and effort. The route to climb the peak involves trekking into the Khumbu, a high basecamp at around 16,000', crossing several large crevasses and climbing steep snow slopes to a windswept summit.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/island%20peak%20summit.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 666.2px !important; left: 574px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6778183</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6778183</guid>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 03 Oct 2018 23:12:39 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Nepal Team Trekking In</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Hey everyone,&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Our Nepal team has now started their trek into the Khumbu - here are some pics they've sent back. They will be arriving at base camp in a few days, then will be climbing Imja Tse, a 20,305' peak with a view of Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Everest. Stay tuned!&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG-20181003-WA0001.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="302" height="403"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG-20181003-WA0011.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="302" height="403"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="https://mountainascent.org/resources/Pictures/Blog%20Pics/IMG-20181003-WA0015.jpg" alt="" title="" border="0" width="302" height="402"&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;div style="width: 29px !important; height: 27px !important; top: 1409.45px !important; left: 272px !important; display: none !important;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6706180</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6706180</guid>
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      <pubDate>Wed, 19 Sep 2018 20:07:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>70 MAA Videos - Climbs and Seminars</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;In a week we celebrate our 9th anniversary! Over the years as we've evolved from SMC to MAA and greatly expanded what we do and how we do it, we've been quietly recording our successes (and some failures!) on mountains and crags all over the place, such as Mt. Rainier, Whitney, Shasta, the Tetons, many CA 14'ers and a host of other crags and peaks all over.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;We've also recorded over two dozen informational and interesting seminars on topics such as how to climb specific, popular mountain destinations, making the transition to mountaineering, glacier travel and crevasse rescue, winter climbing, fast and light climbing, BC skiing, map and compass navigation, knots, expeditions and much more.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p align="left"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In total we have 70 videos built for you, our members! &lt;a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/mountainascent" target="_blank"&gt;Please check it out and subscribe here!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6677237</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6677237</guid>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 09 Sep 2018 05:11:35 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>Welcome to the NEW MAA Website!</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Hello members, welcome to the new MAA website! I hope you are delighted with our new features and design. So what's new? Here's how MAA has changed and improved:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;ul&gt;
  &lt;li&gt;We have four brand new membership levels with benefits we've never been able to offer before!&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;All events posting and registration is in one place! Yes!&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;We can now provide certified MAA instructors as climbing mentors&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;All videos are now on-demand, housed on our site, and we've tripled our technical video training library&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;We have a fitness training program run by a certified fitness professional&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;All membership business is in your hands and can be changed at any time right here on our website&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;All your training and skills proficiency information is now visible&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;We have an online store&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;Membership database is searchable&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;Event listing is seachable&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;We have a blog&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;We have a members forum to coordinate&amp;nbsp;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;You can subscribe to our news feed&amp;nbsp;&lt;/li&gt;

  &lt;li&gt;and more...&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;It's been a long time coming, but I believe these changes are for the best. It is my hope that this new website and these new options and member benefits will propel us for another 10 years!

&lt;p&gt;Thanks for being the most important part of MAA!&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6660665</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6660665</guid>
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      <pubDate>Sun, 09 Sep 2018 05:07:08 GMT</pubDate>
      <title>WFR Course in Truckee Nov. 2018</title>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;Hey everybody, a few of us are taking the Wilderness First Responder Course in Truckee November 17 - 25th, from Sierra Rescue. This is a great company and highly recommended. We do have Thanksgiving day off, BTW. If you are interested in joining a few of us on this course, please register!&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="https://courses.sierrarescue.com/reserve/wilderness-first-respon" target="_blank"&gt;https://courses.sierrarescue.com/reserve/wilderness-first-respon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description>
      <link>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6660662</link>
      <guid>https://mountainascent.org/MAA-blog/6660662</guid>
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